Mudguards

[phattanglo]

I'm just about ready to venture out on my bike but I want to fit some mudguards as I don't fancy a wet stripe front or back.
The bike I have is a Halfords mtb called a Ridgeback with a hardtail and sprung forks.
Is it possible to fit full mudguards rather than the little mtb type as the ones I've seen on Fleabay all seem to say not suitable for suspension bikes.

[AndyK]

Not at the front. Full-length guards are attached at the fork crown and - via struts - at the bottom of the forks, to stop the long tail of the guard from flapping about. Suspension forks keep changing length as you ride, which is a bit of a challenge for a mudguard designer.

You could use a traditional full-length guard on the back (Zefal and SKS both do them in MTB sizes) but as far as I know they're only available in pairs so you'd be wasting half your money.

Some of the MTB-specific clip-on guards cover more area than others. Try looking at the Topeak Defender for the front and the Crud Raceguard (or Defender again) for the rear. Long and wide enough to keep the spray off your back and out of your eyes.

[Mister W]

I can't say I've noticed a problem attaching a mudguard to suspension struts. There's a useful bracket holding the forks together and what do you know, it's even drilled for the mudguard bolt!!!

The best MTB mudguards I've found are the SKS Beavertail, which are nearly as good as proper full length mudguards. They are the only ones I've found that offer decent protection from spray.

[squeaker]

These SKS Shock Blades are the best I've found for suspension forks(but your feet still get wet).

[Mike McGeever]

I am at ppresent fitting Tortec guards to Scott Yecora with Rockshox dart three forks.
Rear ok-only needed nearside stay offset to clear disc brake mechanism.
Has anyone, perhaps in the motor trade or engineering world, came across 35mm. "P" clips to enable me to clamp stay-fixing to bottom section of fork barrels?
It's looking like I will end up making some!
The sliding cast ally fork bridge is not pre drilled to bolt on mudguard bridge. And no I won't drill it!!
I'm new to MTB and surprised to see that manufacturer has made no effort to to seal holes in frame to prevent ingress and accumulation of mud and moisture.
Is this typical of mountain bikes?
I have sealed bottom of steerer tube with expanding H/B plug and sealed crossbraces.
50 years ago, when riding without guards, we had to put a cork in top of open seat pin to protect bottom bracket from accumulated water thrown up from back tyre!

[thirdcrank]

I have sealed bottom of steerer tube with expanding H/B plug and sealed crossbraces.

I used one there to fit a mudguard to a bike with rigid forks but no hole for a brake bolt. Having fitted the plug, I used the expander bolt with a suitable washer to bolt the mudguard directly to the underside of the fork crown. (I suppose you need a bits and pieces box accumulated over the last half century to have any expanding handlebar plugs....

[dr nosh]

Front :
Left fork if disk brake fitted - Remove 1 x 6mm bolt. Replace with longer bolt (approx 4mm longer). Use to secure LH stay. Use threadlock and flat washer.
If disk not fitted, for both forks, use a plastic bracket from a seat post mounted rear light. Seat post is about 30mm dia, fork leg about 35mm dia. Use a longer bolt, 5mm x 35, with head on the inside. Use 2 nuts, 1 plain to fix clip securely, then use protruding end to hold mudguard stay. Use 2nd nut (nylock) to secure. (Or use threadlock and flat washer.)
Top bracket of mudguard. If the fork has U shaped section cast into both legs (most have) then you can bolt straight into the hole in this. Use 6mm bolt, washer both sides and nyloc nut on the rear.

Rear :
Use bridge clip to fix top of mudguard. Use nyloc nut or threadlock on the 6mm bolt.

Lower front. Use zip tie (cable tie) to secure to stay bridge.
Stays :
L/H. You might find an unused 5mm threaded hole in the LH dropout. Again use a longer bolt with head cut off and 3 nuts, thread into frame and use 1 as a locknut to hold headless bolt in place. Loosly run 2nd nut down thread. Form L/H stay to clear disc caliper and over stud that you have just fitted. Fit 3rd nut and then use nut 2 and 3 tightened together to secure L/H stay.
R/H. Convention mudguard fitting technique. 5mm bolt. Probably threaded rear dropout lug.

Hope this helps.

[Mike McGeever]

Thanks for all of this.
Rear no problem.
Not possible to fit front stay fixings -disc brake locating bolts 90 degrees out.
Final solution made "P" brackets from plastic sleeved aluminiumelectricians cable clipping tape-February-so far so good.
Bent edge of bridge plate over strut brace and discretely located with cable ties-not a place to start drilling holes.
Looks tidy

[jdthebrit]

Shockboards - light, indestructible, clipon/off, never got coated with mud yet. I had the full mudguards as a young man and now that my concentration levels are lower I couldn't be arsed with all that bother with stays

As ever, German gear rulez IMO

[Ivor Tingting]

Topeak do a Defender front mudguard available form Halfords which is pretty good IMHO. Costs about £12. It fixes using the hollow of the steerer/head tube. For the rear you can get MTB SKS full length commuter guards 60cm wide which accommodate 2.1cm MTB tyres for £19.95 from Merlin.

[Mike McGeever]

Thanks for info.
It is almost six months since dr nosh? was helpful enough to spend some time replying to my query.
I was simply replying by saying thanks.