Problems I never knew needed solving
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
I don't think any of the OP's points are 'problems' at all. I wear the same padded shorts, gloves for any bike if i'm riding more than around the block. My fat tyre (32 tyres) CX bike is no more comfortable on the potholes but maybe more forgiving if i do hit something than any of my 'road' bikes regardless of whether i'm using 23, 25 or 28 tyres. As the riding position on all my machines (currently 6) vary only slightly in handlebar height but otherwise identical in reach/saddle height it doesn't make any one machine more or less comfortable. Frame material does make a difference, my 3 steel framed steeds are not very forgiving of nasty surfaces, the hydroform Al is a softer ride by far and the carbon is by far and away my favourite particularly for longer rides.
So the OP's new bike is different to his other bikes but it doesn't mean they are 'problems'.
So the OP's new bike is different to his other bikes but it doesn't mean they are 'problems'.
Convention? what's that then?
Airnimal Chameleon touring, Orbit Pro hack, Orbit Photon audax, Focus Mares AX tour, Peugeot Carbon sportive, Owen Blower vintage race - all running Tulio's finest!
Airnimal Chameleon touring, Orbit Pro hack, Orbit Photon audax, Focus Mares AX tour, Peugeot Carbon sportive, Owen Blower vintage race - all running Tulio's finest!
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
foxyrider wrote:I don't think any of the OP's points are 'problems' at all. I wear the same padded shorts, gloves for any bike if i'm riding more than around the block. My fat tyre (32 tyres) CX bike is no more comfortable on the potholes but...
32mm tyres? Fat? My roadster has 37s, the folder has 40+ and the winter bike has 50s... don't knock a blow-up armchair ride until you've tried it. (The utility bike has 28s, but I wouldn't want to go narrower.) Not everyone likes to change into a nappy and special gloves just to pop into town.
MJR, mostly pedalling 3-speed roadsters. KL+West Norfolk BUG incl social easy rides http://www.klwnbug.co.uk
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All the above is CC-By-SA and no other implied copyright license to Cycle magazine.
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
foxyrider wrote:So the OP's new bike is different to his other bikes but it doesn't mean they are 'problems'.
Having every road bump transmitted to my hands and backside is definitely a problem.
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
mjr wrote:Not everyone likes to change into a nappy and special gloves just to pop into town.
Indeed, or worry that your bike might melt in the rain, as a lot of owners of fancy road bikes seem to do.
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
kwackers wrote:I had a lightweight carbon framed bike for a while and whilst it was a revelation in what it meant to ride a bike that weighed nothing it did demonstrate comfort was a relative thing.
I simply rode it less and less until one day I brushed the cobwebs off and sold it.
Nothing beats a steel framed tourer (imo).
I agree for touring, winter and town work. But I also run two steel framed road bikes on country lanes in the summer.
My 1999 531c Bob Jackson is a dream on 23mm tyres. It comes out of hibernation every spring like the Blue Peter tortoise and it feels as if I've just got a brand new fast bike.
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Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
I don't understand the whole lightweight tyre thing. When I rode TT weight mattered. I was at my lifetime lightest and those 20 years of racing where wonderful. But for a training or touring ride tough tyres where the thing to have. "Modern Cyclists" don't seem to get the fact that however lightweight your plastic fantastic bike is the roads are still covered in glass particles, dead hedgehogs and thorns. The weight you save being at your lightest body weight with your super carbon bike gives you the space for some "heavy" puncture proof tyres.
After all no one would be stupid enough to buy a super lightweight bike if they were carrying excess fat
. Would they . . . . ????
Steel frame bikes for me for ever!
After all no one would be stupid enough to buy a super lightweight bike if they were carrying excess fat
. Would they . . . . ????
Steel frame bikes for me for ever!
“Quiet, calm deliberation disentangles every knot.”
Be more Mike.
The road goes on forever.
Be more Mike.
The road goes on forever.
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
I can't ride on drops and have been on and off them several times before leaving it flat bar. Always feels like I am hunched over and can't get the same power on drops, then trying to curl my fingers around on the drops to shift down, I can't grasp it and need everything at my fingertips.
OP you went from one extreme to the other. Mine was a bit harsh on 700x23's so I got Marathon Plus in their thinnest one, only one up from a 23 @ a 25 but those tyres in particular have a 5mm layer in them, it makes them one of the heaviest tyres and grip isn't as good as slick 23's but I am sure just that alone would take a lot of your problems away, front and rear. Just have the M+ tyres set on about 80 psi. Best tyres I have ever used, my only criticism is they don't grip well because they have a tread on them and they don't have a smooth line down the middle of the tyre.
Thing is those tyres mean I can go down canal paths and stuff, with slick 23's you'd have no chance in the wet although thats more down to the rider's own skills.
Sitting upright and sorting out slightly comfier wider tyres was all I needed to do. Its always going to be real harsh if you just switched.
In fact I was using a carbon frame that soaked up all the vibration and hated how flexy it was, so went back to my cheapo cheapo aluminium frame, that does have a carbon fork. The foam grips on my bars are a lot thicker than Cinelli bar tape, I have a semi-padded saddle, it all adds up.
OP you went from one extreme to the other. Mine was a bit harsh on 700x23's so I got Marathon Plus in their thinnest one, only one up from a 23 @ a 25 but those tyres in particular have a 5mm layer in them, it makes them one of the heaviest tyres and grip isn't as good as slick 23's but I am sure just that alone would take a lot of your problems away, front and rear. Just have the M+ tyres set on about 80 psi. Best tyres I have ever used, my only criticism is they don't grip well because they have a tread on them and they don't have a smooth line down the middle of the tyre.
Thing is those tyres mean I can go down canal paths and stuff, with slick 23's you'd have no chance in the wet although thats more down to the rider's own skills.
Sitting upright and sorting out slightly comfier wider tyres was all I needed to do. Its always going to be real harsh if you just switched.
In fact I was using a carbon frame that soaked up all the vibration and hated how flexy it was, so went back to my cheapo cheapo aluminium frame, that does have a carbon fork. The foam grips on my bars are a lot thicker than Cinelli bar tape, I have a semi-padded saddle, it all adds up.
We'll always be together, together on electric bikes.
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
Funnily enough I went out last night for a quick blast on my newly rebuilt Raleigh titanium, 23mm Schwalbe Stelvio light tyres, I'm 105kg, had them at 115/100 which was just a bit of guesswork and lo and behold no problems comfort wise.
I was able to hold a much higher gear ratio up the hills (compared to my day bike with 32mm lightweight folder/25mm gator) including big ringing' it up a short 2.5-3% incline at 20mph...seated! The vital thing was no discomfort comparatively.
I've just fitted some 28mm conti 4 seasons and disappointingly they measure 26mm fitted to my DT Swiss R1.1s
Will see how they go.
I was able to hold a much higher gear ratio up the hills (compared to my day bike with 32mm lightweight folder/25mm gator) including big ringing' it up a short 2.5-3% incline at 20mph...seated! The vital thing was no discomfort comparatively.
I've just fitted some 28mm conti 4 seasons and disappointingly they measure 26mm fitted to my DT Swiss R1.1s
Will see how they go.
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
The fastest average speed I ever got was on a 1960s steel touring bike with down tube shifters, I swear those bikes somehow just "go faster" over modern bikes.
I think a lot of new cyclists ride MTB's around on the road, but switching to 700c was the best thing I did. I do miss the full suspension though and wish there was some sort of FS road bike, if I dare say that. Maybe a high end (in other words carbon) FS MTB that has 29 inch wheels and has disc brakes is on a par with that.
That would be the perfect bike to me, a MTB thats full suspension, carbon, with 700c wheels and disc brakes, with 25/28 tyres with a light tread (M+ would do), with road triple chainrings and flat bars. If it had 32h or 36h wheels there isn't really anywhere you couldn't go on such a bike. You could hammer it around trails on it but it would be on a par with a road bike on the road (if you ducked right down lol). It could be made even better with a Rohloff hub on it, one day.
All I care about is reliability, durability, performance and comfort, not necessarily in that order. What I don't care about and never will is "going faster" or racing, or having lightweight stuff thats going to wear out in two years, or as some call years... "seasons".
I think a lot of new cyclists ride MTB's around on the road, but switching to 700c was the best thing I did. I do miss the full suspension though and wish there was some sort of FS road bike, if I dare say that. Maybe a high end (in other words carbon) FS MTB that has 29 inch wheels and has disc brakes is on a par with that.
That would be the perfect bike to me, a MTB thats full suspension, carbon, with 700c wheels and disc brakes, with 25/28 tyres with a light tread (M+ would do), with road triple chainrings and flat bars. If it had 32h or 36h wheels there isn't really anywhere you couldn't go on such a bike. You could hammer it around trails on it but it would be on a par with a road bike on the road (if you ducked right down lol). It could be made even better with a Rohloff hub on it, one day.
All I care about is reliability, durability, performance and comfort, not necessarily in that order. What I don't care about and never will is "going faster" or racing, or having lightweight stuff thats going to wear out in two years, or as some call years... "seasons".
We'll always be together, together on electric bikes.
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
thelawnet wrote:foxyrider wrote:So the OP's new bike is different to his other bikes but it doesn't mean they are 'problems'.
Having every road bump transmitted to my hands and backside is definitely a problem.
I expect that some wider tyres; the widest you can fit will help. I use Conti 4 seasons. Although I have Marathons on some other bikes, I find them a bit stiff in the narrower sizes. IMO the performance of the Conti 4 seasons justify the cost, but I know that not everyone agrees with me. Have a poke around on the 'tyre recommendation' threads on the forum for something a little easier riding than Marathons.
Other things you can try:
different, or double tape on the handle bars
suspension seat post
gel saddle
Other people manage to make such bikes comfortable for long distances, so it should be possible for everyone, or nearly everyone who wnats to ride one.
“In some ways, it is easier to be a dissident, for then one is without responsibility.”
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― Nelson Mandela, Long Walk to Freedom
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
thelawnet wrote:And suddenly I have some insight into some of the cycling problems I had previously dismissed as non-issues - painful vibration through the handlebars on any surface other than perfectly smooth tarmac- looks like I need to buy some padded gloves; sore backside from the frame/saddle transmitting all the same road issues - need to get some padded shorts; lack of stability on slippery surfaces/cornering/going down hill - best buy myself a helmet; lack of appropriate shoes for the pedals.
The review for the bike insists that it is 'relaxed', 'comfortable' and that the 'frame and the fork do a good job of filtering out vibration and chatter from uneven roads.' I assume that all of these qualities are relative.
Apparently it's a practical choice - practical if you count the lack of possibility for mudguards, panniers, or even carrying a lock lest you compromise its 'every gram less costs a pound more' weight properties, and then fear of it getting nicked if you leave it out in public.
But maybe I will grow to love it, once I am appropriately shod, clad, and am used to the riding position.
It's hard to know if these are things which are specific to your bike or if you're just not used to how a road bike goes? I certainly don't get painful vibrations through the bars and usually ride without gloves (except when it's cold which is all the time recently).
Is your fork carbon? What tyres do you have? What pressures?
Of course the ride isn't going to be as forgiving as something with massive tyres, but it shouldn't be uncomfortably so.
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
May just not be used to the road bike practice of choosing one's line on the road to avoid irregularities that you'd just plough a hybrid or MTB straight over.
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
My wife uses Specialized Bar Phat, which is a gel-like substance that goes under your handlebar tape. This reduces vibration from the road, also padded track mitts/gloves will reduced vibration.
Sherwood CC and Notts CTC.
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http://www.jogler2009.blogspot.com
A cart horse trapped in the body of a man.
http://www.jogler2009.blogspot.com
Re: Problems I never knew needed solving
karlt wrote:May just not be used to the road bike practice of choosing one's line on the road to avoid irregularities that you'd just plough a hybrid or MTB straight over.
irregularities aka resurfacing
MJR, mostly pedalling 3-speed roadsters. KL+West Norfolk BUG incl social easy rides http://www.klwnbug.co.uk
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