RideToWorky wrote:Just asking on the off chance someone knows...
is that book any good on a Kindle? Or are the road diagrams all missing etc?!
Regards
Martin
I've got this for the Kindle. All the pics etc are in there.
--Jatinder
RideToWorky wrote:Just asking on the off chance someone knows...
is that book any good on a Kindle? Or are the road diagrams all missing etc?!
Regards
Martin
mjr wrote:RideToWorky wrote:is that book any good on a Kindle? Or are the road diagrams all missing etc?!
I don't know. The paper edition is cheaper, which is just bizarre, plus most county libraries have a copy if you just want to look something up.
While some of its survival strategies are worth knowing, they're documented elsewhere and I can't honestly recommend Cyclecraft itself to people because some of the opinions in it are rather extreme, old-fashioned and unhelpful.
jatindersangha wrote:RideToWorky wrote:Just asking on the off chance someone knows...
is that book any good on a Kindle? Or are the road diagrams all missing etc?!
Regards
Martin
I've got this for the Kindle. All the pics etc are in there.
--Jatinder
PhilWhitehurst wrote:Most councils have a map online showing their primary and secondary gritting routes. If a road is dry and it's cold then it's fine to ride, even on icy days. Bridges are often icy as the air below cools them. Just ride to the conditions and if you front wheel twitches glide to a halt and walk a bit. Icy stretches rarely last long unless a road takes a lot of drainage. Roads that catch the sun are better in these conditions as its able to melt the ice. So east / west lanes with no a lot of shade are good.
mjr wrote:pwa wrote:I commuted to work by bike for about 20 years, including through the winter, and in frosty weather I stuck to gritted roads. If you don't you will, at some point, end up on your <i>[rude word removed]</i> on the road. And it hurts.
My last ice crash was on a treated road. The buses hadn't started running yet and I think there just hadn't been enough traffic to work the salt in and melt the ice. I bought studded tyres after that. They run slower than molasses in January but resolutely keep gripping in everything we've had so far.
Richard A Thackeray wrote:mjr wrote:pwa wrote:I commuted to work by bike for about 20 years, including through the winter, and in frosty weather I stuck to gritted roads. If you don't you will, at some point, end up on your <i>[rude word removed]</i> on the road. And it hurts.
My last ice crash was on a treated road. The buses hadn't started running yet and I think there just hadn't been enough traffic to work the salt in and melt the ice. I bought studded tyres after that. They run slower than molasses in January but resolutely keep gripping in everything we've had so far.
I have too (commuted year round, for 20+ years), even on - when I was using that bike - '20' section tyres, in winter (as they were all that would fit with mudguards, & Salmon Profil, at that !!!!)
If it's too bad, I'll run instead (I try to alternate, run one day, ride next)
It's either a case of fell-running shoes, if deep snow/slush
Such as my Inov-8 'Mud-Claw 330' (note peat-bog tide mark on legs!!, & Cycling club jersey)
If it's icy, I have another pair of Inov-8's (OROC-340) , which are really meant to be orienteering shoes, but great in ice, as they have tungsten studs!