I wasn't expecting that!

[resus1uk]

I used a jubilee clip to replace the original chrome steel clip on my trikes hub brake reaction arm as the bolt was rusty. It broke under heavy braking to avoid a pedestrian. I thought it was only horses that sleep standing up.
Now got the proper clip and bolt. Lesson learnt

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
Any loose fastener which is repeatedly seeing loads will wear the hole and fastener.
Motorcycle brake torque arms had spilt pins on shouldered bolts with nut and washer or self locking all metal nuts which were flanged IIRC.

Don't think nylocs were used as OEM fitting.
All Metal self locking nuts might be preferred.
As with all selflocking fasteners don't reuse fit new and damage the old one with a hammer to be sure.
Professional work, this is mandatory.
Any lubricant here is a real killer.

There are dozens of different self locking all metal fasteners but I prefer the ones where the end of nut is squashed radially so the thread is a different pitch for the last ten percent of thread length.

Google this on images "all metal self locking nuts"

Belt and braces is a shouldered flanged bolt drilled for pin with nut washer and split pin.

E bikes make me cringe..
http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/torque-arms.html

[SA_SA_SA]

terminology aside (there are many different names for the same thing and the same name can apply to different things too), you are usually better off with a nut and bolt. The reason for this is that the fitting needs to be pretty snug in most drum brakes; a loose fitting may just rattle and drive you nuts, but if it doesn't do that it may well cause a cup and cone hub adjustment to work loose, because the brake plate is usually trapped between the cone and locknut....

Does this mean you don't like this?
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pacman

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
On motorcycles they use a long slot so the wheel has to come out some way before the brake plate would disengage.

I not sure I like either of those pics that much.