Replace my worn out Ribble

[mill4six]

When I said I stripped it I meant just that. Every last nut and bolt, back to the frame. Recent new headset, pedals, bottom bracket and then cleaned and rebuilt. Still creaks.

[Brucey]

I'd normally guess that there is an interface somewhere that didn't get taken apart or is making the noise in a weird way; I'm thinking

- bars to stem
- headset
- saddle to seat pin
- chainrings to cranks
- BB bearings to their seatings
- BB cups to frame
- pedals into cranks
- cleat to shoe
- cleat to pedal
- saddle to seat pin
- saddle rails to saddle hull
- gear hanger to frame

however there are some more obscure/worrying things that can cause creaks, e.g.
- bottle bosses in the frame
- something in the rear hub
- spokes in the hub flange
- spokes in the rim
- rim eyelets
- bonded joints in a carbon fork
- cracks in carbon or aluminium parts

If it takes you long enough to find the creak, it might well be cheaper/easier to buy a new bike!

cheers

[mill4six]

It is most infuriating! If I ever work it out I'll share.

[landsurfer]

You need to read Doctor Hutch in cycling weekly about squeaks ..... some one must still have their copy ...post it please

Still waiting for a price for this "worn out bike" ...... like I said "I'll have it" ..

[mill4six]

Brucey's useful suggestions might have done it. I have a Tortec Slimline rack which has some swoopy stays to clear the rear brake on the way to the frame mounts. When I fitted it I had trouble getting them to line up but with a bit of grunt I got the threads started and then screwed it all up to force everything tight. Playing with the frame today, flexing the bike with my hands I could feel the creak in the seat stay area. I spent some time re aligning the rack stays to de-stress them. I tried them every which way, added spacers etc until I was happy and now I can't make the frame creak with my hands. Fingers crossed that this is a cure. The next most irritating thing to sort out is the indexing. When it will jump down to a smaller sprocket, I have to overshift to get it to go the other way. It needs new jockey wheels and a chain but then of course I'll need a cassette and ideally chain rings too. The cables should be ok but if I did them too for thoroughness I'd have spent a fair bit. If the creak has gone, I might start to love it again and decide to treat it.

[landsurfer]

if your indexing is at the lever then replace it with a non indexed ( just done that with my winter bike) lever and all is well...

[pwa]

Brucey's useful suggestions might have done it. I have a Tortec Slimline rack which has some swoopy stays to clear the rear brake on the way to the frame mounts. When I fitted it I had trouble getting them to line up but with a bit of grunt I got the threads started and then screwed it all up to force everything tight. Playing with the frame today, flexing the bike with my hands I could feel the creak in the seat stay area. I spent some time re aligning the rack stays to de-stress them. I tried them every which way, added spacers etc until I was happy and now I can't make the frame creak with my hands. Fingers crossed that this is a cure. The next most irritating thing to sort out is the indexing. When it will jump down to a smaller sprocket, I have to overshift to get it to go the other way. It needs new jockey wheels and a chain but then of course I'll need a cassette and ideally chain rings too. The cables should be ok but if I did them too for thoroughness I'd have spent a fair bit. If the creak has gone, I might start to love it again and decide to treat it.

Sounds like the indexing problem is probably due to friction in the cable. Maybe even fraying somewhere. Or damaged outer. The spring in the rear mech seems to be having trouble pulling back to a smaller sprocket.

[mill4six]

Gaaaaaagh! It's still creaking.

[mill4six]

I've come so close to just buying a new bike but then I began thinking of building one up on a new frame. I saw a Kaffenback II frame online and started to think about what bits I'd put on it. To cut a long story short, I've traced the creak to the rear skewer and bought all new parts for the transmission, that is chain, sprocket, chainset and rear mech. I went for an 11 -32 and a longer cage on the rear mech to get some easier gears while I was at it and these are all parts I can transfer to a new build as and when, so It doesn't feel like throwing money at an old bike. The indexing problem vanished with a new cable and outer so the whole bike is going to be much more pleasant to ride.