Hiya all,
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/hip ... 0#features
works brill for both my hybrids and road bikes
Cheers
Martin
Cheap alternative to work stand-works great for simple stuff
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- Posts: 218
- Joined: 23 Oct 2015, 1:14pm
Re: Cheap alternative to work stand-works great for simple s
When I flip my bike, I put two blocks of high-density packing foam under the handlebars and a carpet offcut under the saddle. The foam came free with some parts. I also have a work stand and a bike lift, but I find wheel removal easier with the bike flipped.
The trickier thing is grabbing the front fork and seatpost at the correct points so that the bike's own weight flips it nicely without it crashing into you! Edit: I just looked for a video of the technique on YouTube and didn't find one - loads of people grabbing the stays, which will strain your back, and a few rolling the bike back over the back wheel which trashes mudguards and the back edge of the saddle.
The trickier thing is grabbing the front fork and seatpost at the correct points so that the bike's own weight flips it nicely without it crashing into you! Edit: I just looked for a video of the technique on YouTube and didn't find one - loads of people grabbing the stays, which will strain your back, and a few rolling the bike back over the back wheel which trashes mudguards and the back edge of the saddle.
MJR, mostly pedalling 3-speed roadsters. KL+West Norfolk BUG incl social easy rides http://www.klwnbug.co.uk
All the above is CC-By-SA and no other implied copyright license to Cycle magazine.
All the above is CC-By-SA and no other implied copyright license to Cycle magazine.
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- Posts: 218
- Joined: 23 Oct 2015, 1:14pm
Re: Cheap alternative to work stand-works great for simple s
mjr wrote:When I flip my bike, I put two blocks of high-density packing foam under the handlebars and a carpet offcut under the saddle. The foam came free with some parts. I also have a work stand and a bike lift, but I find wheel removal easier with the bike flipped.
The trickier thing is grabbing the front fork and seatpost at the correct points so that the bike's own weight flips it nicely without it crashing into you! Edit: I just looked for a video of the technique on YouTube and didn't find one - loads of people grabbing the stays, which will strain your back, and a few rolling the bike back over the back wheel which trashes mudguards and the back edge of the saddle.
Hi mpr,
The item I highlighted above is brilliant for flipping the bike over.
The foam pads are held in place on the handlebars, and the seat pad is held on the seat!
The easiest way I found to flip the bike upside down , Is to use the back break and then just flip the bike over upside down. I'll look out for the mudguard though. The seat is protected by the flip seats foam thing though so that's fine
Cheers
Martin
Re: Cheap alternative to work stand-works great for simple s
Two lengths of chain attached to hooks in the rafters of my garage. One chain slipped under the saddle one slipped under the stem. I can walk around the bike and work on it standing upright. I rarely flip the bike. Also saves my old back. It's a good use for old chains as well. You can make loops out of them to adjust working height.
Re: Cheap alternative to work stand-works great for simple s
To adjust gears and brakes its better if the bike is upright. I use my car bike carrier clamped in a machine vice like this…
Al
Al
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Re: Cheap alternative to work stand-works great for simple s
I use a stand for most things but I cannot for the life of me refit a rear wheel with derailleurs unless the bike is flipped. And yes I know what The Rules say.
Re: Cheap alternative to work stand-works great for simple s
karlt wrote:I use a stand for most things but I cannot for the life of me refit a rear wheel with derailleurs unless the bike is flipped. And yes I know what The Rules say.
Me too. Well at least getting the QR/axle to seat seems impossible.
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Cheers
Barry
Cheers
Barry
Re: Cheap alternative to work stand-works great for simple s
this may be stating the obvious but it is best if the wheel axles are hard up against the dropouts when the wheels are fitted. If they are not, the wheels are a little more likely to move in service, not to mention that the brakes might be badly set etc.
I'd therefore recommend that when wheels are fitted, you either do it 'right way up with the weight of the frame bearing down on the wheels' or with the bike inverted.
If you refit wheels in a workstand, it is always a good idea to slacken and then retighten them once the bike is back on the ground. With many disc braked bikes this is almost mandatory if you don't want the brakes to rub.
cheers
I'd therefore recommend that when wheels are fitted, you either do it 'right way up with the weight of the frame bearing down on the wheels' or with the bike inverted.
If you refit wheels in a workstand, it is always a good idea to slacken and then retighten them once the bike is back on the ground. With many disc braked bikes this is almost mandatory if you don't want the brakes to rub.
cheers
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