Low profile cantilever recommendation. Heel clearance issues

[ljamesbee]

I fit a pair of cr720's to my bike, a 26" wheel, MTB/touring bike. I like the brakes, but unfortunately I keep occasionally hitting the rear canti arms with my heels. As a result I'm going to have to try another option. I was hoping to get some advice on what I should do.

Does anyone have any suggestions or recommend a particular brake model? Will be used for touring and commuting. Looking for something lightweight which will stop me .

The options I'm thinking about currently are these:

Tektro RX6 'mini v-brake' 144g

Tektro CR710 144g

Tektro Oryx 150

[Brucey]

as well as heel clearance you should think about

- tyre/mudguard clearance with mini-Vs (see other threads re this) and
- compatibility with your brake levers

So perhaps you could mention what tyres/mudguards you intend to use and what brake levers you have?

cheers

[ljamesbee]

Good point about the mudguards Brucey! Those mini v's may be a bit of a pain so I think those are out of the running. Also a bit concerned that they'll be less forgiving of non trued wheels.

Mudguards: I think I have some sks 'bluemels', but not certain.
Levers: The cable pull is for calliper/cantilever brakes. They are some slightly obscure levers. Practically identical to tektro RL720 or cane creek crosstops.

[Brucey]

I think that if you want to use 40mm tyres plus mudguards then 90mm mini-Vs might work (clearance wise) but if you have a short cable pull on your crosstops (and it can be shorter than that of the main levers, there are variations here, and if you found the wide profile cantis OK for power it suggests you do have a short cable pull BTW) then Mini-Vs may give spongy braking that needs frequent adjustment.

You may find adjustment of mini-Vs impossible unless there is a barrel adjuster somewhere in the line. If you don't have one you will have to fit one. I'd suggest that with most setups you need about 17mm (or more) of available cable pull to use mini-Vs without having to run them too close to the rims.

Heal clearance wise, look to see where your heels are in relation to the seat stays. The low profile cantis are more likely to work OK with your levers (and anyway the MA is adjustable, unlike other brakes) and the arms will stick out about 1" beyond the stays.

cheers

[PH]

Do you have drop or straight bars and are your levers brake only or brake/gear?

[ljamesbee]

I think low profile canti's are going to be my best bet. From the sounds of it, I could definitely make the mini v brakes work, but it will introduce some extra hassle. The kind of hassle which will inevitably mean an (n+1) style series of part changes and me going 'grrrrr, bikes '.

I'm leaning towards the cr710's over the oryx ones. They are both similar, but the 710's have a barrel adjuster thing and are apparently slightly lighter.

I use some standard straight bars, and also butterfly bars (depending on the situation). The crosstop-type levers are my main levers.

[PH]

With straight bars I'd use full size Vs and normal levers, unless there's a reason they can't be used . Not the cheapest option, but what price good brakes?

[ljamesbee]

With straight bars I'd use full size Vs and normal levers, unless there's a reason they can't be used . Not the cheapest option, but what price good brakes?

No reason full size v's and levers can't be used. Just personal preference really . I find it easier to control my braking than with v-brakes - less on/off feeling. I don't think I need for more 'stopping power' because I can skid front and rear wheels when I apply my brakes. I also like the extra clearance because it allows for more mud, and less true wheels.

The crosstop-type levers work well for me. Use 2/3 fingers to brake so don't need full size ones. Plus they are 99g for the pair . I also sometimes use them for their crosstop ability (allows using two separate levers to pull the same brake) to add a second front brake lever when using butterfly or aero bars.

[greyingbeard]

pedersen self eneregising rear cantilevers here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161298161619? ... EBIDX%3AIT
£7.50

they really are very good for cantis.
there is a matching front version but its no better than anything else

[fatboy]

pedersen self eneregising rear cantilevers here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161298161619? ... EBIDX%3AIT
£7.50

they really are very good for cantis.
there is a matching front version but its no better than anything else

+1

[Brucey]

pedersen self eneregising rear cantilevers here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161298161619? ... EBIDX%3AIT
£7.50

they really are very good for cantis.
there is a matching front version but its no better than anything else

+1

they are cheaper from SJS in fact (although there is postage to consider I suppose). FWIW these are super brakes power-wise but IIRC the modulation takes a bit of getting used to? It has been a while since I ran any of these.

cheers

[ljamesbee]

Thanks for the recommendation. I'm going to go with the tektro cr710 in the end though because they are 50-100g lighter. Plus I have a front cr720, which uses threaded cartridge brakes. Would rather keep front and rear brake pads the same.

Found them on bike24 for £15 per wheel with shipping.

[fatboy]

pedersen self eneregising rear cantilevers here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161298161619? ... EBIDX%3AIT
£7.50

they really are very good for cantis.
there is a matching front version but its no better than anything else

+1

they are cheaper from SJS in fact (although there is postage to consider I suppose). FWIW these are super brakes power-wise but IIRC the modulation takes a bit of getting used to? It has been a while since I ran any of these.

cheers

The eBay is from SJS. They must have bought tons of these that they need to shift! I don't find the modulation to be too bad and you get tons of clearance but with high MA Probably the worst aspect is that if the rims are dirty/greasy/wet the fall off in power is more obvious.