Surly forks on non-Surly bikes

[reohn2]

...Just trying to add a little balance and perspective you know!

Likewise

I mean if you used a given type of derailleur gear system and found it either good or bad, most people would think it a bit of a leap to then suggest that they might all be like that....

cheers

But that's not what I'm implying,I've clearly said Avid BB7's.I've only ever tried one other disc system, TRP Spyres,which I had small reservations* about hence me changing them for BB7 MTN's,which was a worthwhile swap out that didn't cost me anything.

I like stuff that just works and doesn't need constant tending to,BB7's fall squarely into that category IME,if there's a downside after 6or7 years use I haven't found one yet YVMV

*unnecessarily overcomplicated two pad actuation design that needed a tool to adjust whilst out riding,they also squealed loudly when hot or wet or both,which I could've perhaps cured by changing rotors,but it tipped the scales,actual braking performance was very similar with the Spyres perhaps feeling a leettle more spongy at the lever,but nothing critical .

[goatwarden]

The BB5 on the front of this bike and on the rear of another work fine and much better than rim brakes. Funnily enough I have my old 1981 Corlton, still with its cheap Wineman side pulls and those brakes still feel quite reasuring; the cantis on my Kona never did.

I have had two tandems with BB7s and the braking has always been very good (only ever used sintered pads and 205 discs.) I have recently had to replace the inboard adjuster wheel on the rear of the tandem as the previous one had melted, making adjustment impossible; it's a shame Avid don't make tis part in steel as the plastic ones are pretty rubbish and the risk of melting is pretty obvious.

[Brucey]

it may interest you to know that an earlier model of avid BB calipers (which were otherwise similar to later BB5s, and retailed for £100 a pop, back in the day) had a metal FPA adjuster knob. You couldn't easily (if ever) turn it by hand, and the water tended to get into the whole thing a bit easier ( all the parts fitted inside the FPA adjuster bore) and could cause corrosion/seizure etc, but the knob couldn't suffer in the same way with the heat.

The BB3 model had a split/bolt-up caliper body and the FPA adjuster was a metal allen key headed thing. I don't think there were any plastic parts inside that caliper either.

BTW the current BB5 and BB7 calipers can melt their FPA knobs but the plastic parts on the other side of the caliper don't seem to suffer in the same way. I guess the heat is less likely to go that far.

cheers

[andrew_s]

The BB7 inboard adjuster has a torx socket in the middle, that I generally find easier than wrapping my fingers round the spokes. Provided the knob isn't too melted too badly, you could just use that instead. A suitable key is supplied, which I slot into the case of my Alien.

FPA adjuster

so would that be "Fixed Pad Adjuster adjuster"?

[Brucey]

the problem is that the FPA assembly uses the adjustment knob as a detent piece; around the outside the 'fingers' locate the adjustment knob and stop the whole assembly from turning in use. Once the adjuster knob is melted, it may well lose its grip.

cheers

[goatwarden]

the problem is that the FPA assembly uses the adjustment knob as a detent piece; around the outside the 'fingers' locate the adjustment knob and stop the whole assembly from turning in use. Once the adjuster knob is melted, it may well lose its grip.

cheers

My problem was somewhat the reverse of this since the melted knob gripped the ft such that very little adjustment range was available. I prefer to use a Torx key as the plastic wheel is very difficult to get sufficient purchase on with sausage fingers and the wheel in place but it would have broken the plastic wheel (hence no detent) if I had just kept widing with the Torx key. I would be very happy just to remove and forget the plastic wheel if the detent was achieved a different way.

[Brucey]

the plastic wheel is also important because it is the only thing that stops road spray from entering the FPA bore and causing seizure. This happens anyway, I grant you, but it would surely happen a lot quicker if the thing were not there.

If you look at the way the thing works, you can see that it may well carry on working pretty well even if a few of the fingers on it have broken off. This can make it easier to turn, as can a little strategically applied lubrication.

So anyway, there seems to be a gap in the market there, for a metal adjuster knob for BB5 and BB7 calipers. I think you could make something really nice using a stainless steel pressing of some kind. In the meantime, new plastic knobs are available and they are not that expensive.

cheers

[goatwarden]

In the meantime, new plastic knobs are available and they are not that expensive.

cheers

I agree wit everyting except this bit. I was only able to find one place with them in stock (only available as a "kit" including the outer knob, which as you mentioned earlier never melts, and something else I didn't need) for £7.00. That seemed ludicrous but I had little choice and bought it.

It really agravates me to have to pay so much for inconsequential bits of plastic, whose tooling costs were paid-off years ago, when often you get packaging which is more complex for free.

[mrjemm]

Get a room guys! I booked one for you, it's only travelodge, but you can't have everything:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=99721

As for Surly forks then... Any developments, TM?

[niggle]

For those who only need clearance for up to 32mm tyres with mudguards, and don't need low rider bosses, Planet X Kaffenback or On One Pompino chromo forks are available for very reasonable prices, e.g. £19.99 for Kaffenback disk brake version:

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FOPXKV2/pl ... -2011-fork

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FOOOPV3/on ... -fork-2012

They are in various odd ball colours only but at the price having them sprayed or powder coated will still keep the bill down quite a bit compared with the competition, and I don't know that Surly forks are any lighter or better made.

[SA_SA_SA]

......
BTW the current BB5 and BB7 calipers can melt their FPA knobs but the plastic parts on the other side of the caliper don't seem to suffer in the same way. I guess the heat is less likely to go that far...

You could make a sponge /cloth cover for the knob and wet it before a long descent?
(watercooling?) Safest on rear only?