Converting DT to STI

[karlt]

I've got a set of Claris STI levers coming (eBay, £30). However, I'd appreciate a bit of guidance as to what else I'll need. The current DTs have no outer cable anywhere, so I'm going to need cable outers. Are the barrel adjusters part of the cable or part of the shifter itself? Finally, assuming that the outer cable will end where the DTs currently sit (brazed on), how do I manage the transition from housing to bare cable? The system is 2x8; the reason for upgrading is that I want to replace the front rings with a compact but don't fancy having to deal with the associated double-shifts using the DT levers.

Help appreciated!

[beardy]

A couple of these or similar in place of the downtube levers on the braze ons.

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... snagrsz250

[531colin]

I have never owned a pair of STIs, but when i have bought Bar End levers, the Downtube cable adjusters have come with them.
Front and rear shifts are easy enough with downtube levers, do both shifts with one hand.

[mercalia]

You may have to take up the handle bar tape as I think some of the cable goes under it? brakes I think.

[karlt]

I have never owned a pair of STIs, but when i have bought Bar End levers, the Downtube cable adjusters have come with them.
Front and rear shifts are easy enough with downtube levers, do both shifts with one hand.

I'd imagine they normally do, but these are second hand so fingers crossed.

I know about the tape but the bars need re-wrapping any road. I can manage the double-shifts with one hand, but don't find it easy with DTs. I'm a bit clumsy.

[Brucey]

.... the reason for upgrading is that I want to replace the front rings with a compact but don't fancy having to deal with the associated double-shifts using the DT levers.....

Well I find double-shifts on a double as easy or even easier with DT levers because you can do it all with one hand. You need to use both if you have STIs...

just make sure that your mechs are compatible with the shifters; the front shift is indexed so it won't work with the wrong front mech.

You would be well advised to fit new cable inners (of good quality, in stainless steel) if you are buying used STIs. Time spent on cable housing prep is never wasted, either.

cheers

[karlt]

.... the reason for upgrading is that I want to replace the front rings with a compact but don't fancy having to deal with the associated double-shifts using the DT levers.....

Well I find double-shifts on a double as easy or even easier with DT levers because you can do it all with one hand. You need to use both if you have STIs...

Yeah, but they stay on the bars which more than makes up for having to use both if you're borderline dyspraxic.

just make sure that your mechs are compatible with the shifters; the front shift is indexed so it won't work with the wrong front mech.

The front mech is bent and nasty so I don't mind replacing it if I have to. The rear is marked as SIS.

[cycleruk]

With Claris shifters, the brake cable routes under the bar tape but the gear cable leaves the shifter at 90 degrees in fresh air in front of the bars. The gear cable outer then routes down to where the downtube changer fitting is and to a "gear cable stop". (As posted above)
You will probably need a complete set of both gear and brake cables. Note that gear cables and outers are different from brake inners and outers and should not be mixed for safety reasons.
See Sheldon Brown :-
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

As far as barrel adjusters, I'm not certain, but there may be some on the cable exit of the Claris shifter for the gear change?
Generally there is an adjuster already on the rear derailleur but not on the front one.

[beardy]

I dont think that you can get a cable stop that fits a braze on lug which doesnt have an adjuster built in.
So adjusters will not be the same problem as it is for people using band-ons.

[karlt]

Thanks all. It's all working, even with the geriatric front derailleur. The box Wiggle sent the gear stops in was big enough for a complete set of Pratchett novels. In hardback. ;P)

[karlt]

Thanks all. It's all working, even with the geriatric front derailleur. The box Wiggle sent the gear stops in was big enough for a complete set of Pratchett novels. In hardback. ;P)

Bit of an update - I'm finding the rear derailleur a bit reluctant on the upshift (i.e. to smaller cog). Sometimes have to click the lever twice then push the downshift back to make a single change. Or wait for it to get the idea.

The cable housings running to the cable end stops are marked Shimano SIS and are new, so I don't think it's them. However, the rear loop of housing is a bit old and knackered - is it worth replacing do you think? Is this likely to be the issue?

[andrewjoseph]

i'd check it all, section by section.

undo the cable bolt at the rear mech, pull cable by hand and click up and down the full range, you should feel if it is reluctant to move freely.

do this at the end of all sections up to the shifter. it might be one section sticking, or it might be just a little in all sections.

check also the rear mech is moving freely.

[Brucey]

.... the rear loop of housing is a bit old and knackered - is it worth replacing do you think? Is this likely to be the issue?

yes and yes.

Ideally you need to use linered, compressionless housing everywhere on a gear system. If you apply tension to both ends of the cable and try to pull it through the housing, you will soon see if it is draggy or not. What you won't see is if the ends have been badly prepped and are cocking slightly, or if the housing is springy lengthwise. Any can cause indexing faults.

cheers

[cycleruk]

As Brucy says - Yes.
Check for frayed or kinked cable in the derailleur section and also where the cable goes under the BB.

[karlt]

As Brucy says - Yes.
Check for frayed or kinked cable in the derailleur section and also where the cable goes under the BB.

Cable's all new. I'll replace the rear derailleur housing "loop" as it's pretty old and I'm also fairly sure it's not compressionless.