Valbrona wrote:Your picture doesn't really show what size it is, but there is only a wee bit of seatpost showing.
if you can't see the whole picture get a different browser or try pressing 'CTRL -' a few times.
The headtube is at least 7" long; that makes the frame about 23" in a typical MTB.
I was riding trails in the 1970s on a bike a built myself. After a break from it I bought my first 'proper mountain bike' in about 1987. It was a claud butler built with 501 AT main tubes and CrMo stays; it had a horizontal top tube (it had to, it was built with lugs) and I bought it about 2" -3" smaller than my road bike/touring bike would have been at the time. Yes, a sloping top tube would have been better in some ways but the actual 'extra vegetable clearance' I get on such a frame today is only about an extra 1" or 1-1/2" or so; worth having for sure but not necessary for 99% of the time; I did a lot of miles on that bike; I rode it for about ten years or so and I only ever used it with clips and straps, too! I had a Kona Lave Dome for a couple of years (in about 1993-1995) but in the end I flogged that and kept the CB; it was (and indeed still is) a better bike overall.
As another poster has commented, such frames make great workhorses and (unlike many later MTB frame designs) are both shorter in the TT so will accept dropped bars and with the higher seat stays they also accept a rack and panniers better too. If you really want to lug a big load, they make a more capable machine than an old Galaxy IMHO. If you just want to carry 10-15kg on good roads then an 'ordinary touring bike' is probably a better choice, but for heavier loads and/or rougher roads I think a converted MTB edges it.
cheers