Steel fork query

[531colin]

Touring geometry in this case being 71 deg head, 55mm offset http://dawescycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Touring-Geometries.pdf
Its a really long fork due to the strange upward extension of the unicrown under the crown race..http://dawescycles.com/product/galaxy-plus/
Its a welded unicrown, it isn't a case of brazing a new steerer into a cast crown. If the existing 1 1/8" steerer isn't internally butted at the bottom, then a 1" steerer will slot right in.... I can't remember which bit of the lump forms the crown race seat, but the builder will have to produce a new seat.
Being a disc fork, its the sort of thing that will try to break your wrists on a bumpy road....I think thats fashion, rather than "high end". 631 blades brazed into a nice crown will give you a nice comfortable fork......caveat...I'm 11 stone...somebody weighing half as much again will get a bit of flex out of these behemoths

I'm not against fitting different forks to modify the steering geometry, i am running 2 bikes like that. however, I think you need to go into it with your eyes open before spending money, we have already had one surprise on this thread, somebody said bikes this age were pretty laid back geometry, it turns out its 73 deg parallel....just the sort of thing i would put a long fork (with a small offset) on to calm it down a bit, but then i know exactly what sort of steering geo. i like....getting there by luck is not an option for me.

[bigjim]

Roger that seems a very expensive way to run a classic bike. The frame is brand new untouched from the factory in the 1980s. It has never been built up so I'm reluctant to mess with it. I already own the bike pictured which is also mint but not exactly my size so may sell it on. it's possible to buy a rough Royal on e-bay for about £100 so I may hang fire to do that and respray the fork myself. Forks with long steerers seem pretty rare. I'm quite happy with rim brakes.

Thanks. I've put that fork on my watch list. Though I was trying to avoid canti brakes.

[breakwellmz]

I see the fork i highlighted has now gone, was it you?

[bigjim]

I see the fork i highlighted has now gone, was it you?

No. Not guilty. I thought it was a bit pricy anyway with postage. Amazing what old forks fetch. Will have to stick a couple up. I've paid less for complete bikes.

[recordacefromnew]

I think you need to go into it with your eyes open before spending money, we have already had one surprise on this thread, somebody said bikes this age were pretty laid back geometry, it turns out its 73 deg parallel....just the sort of thing i would put a long fork (with a small offset) on to calm it down a bit, but then i know exactly what sort of steering geo. i like....getting there by luck is not an option for me.

I agree. Assuming 700c 30mm tyres, 45mm offset (which is common, recent road forks are usually within 40mm and 50mm) will deliver 52.6mm trail for 73 degree headtube. For reference nearly all large Trek road frames have a 55mm trail, and typically deviation outside the 50mm to 63mm range is not recommended.

Since every 10mm reduction in A2C will reduce trail by 3mm resulting from increasing headtube angle by 0.5 degree, and every mm reduction in offset will increase trail by essentially the same amount, typical 700c forks 10mm shorter than original would need to have a 40mm offset to deliver 55mm trail, and a long pair of forks per original, likely 382mm A2C or thereabout with 40mm offset, would deliver a still reasonable 58mm.

[andy65]

Brake drop could be a problem at the rear with a 700c wheel. 4 mm doesn't sound a lot but if the clearance is generous with a 27" wheel then you could struggle to source a brake calliper with enough drop.

[drossall]

For what it's worth I've got some SJS forks that I never used or fitted - they are still packaged. Not sure they are what you want though (and not sure what length the fork column is - would need to measure it).