Tools for drifting out bearings

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dottigirl
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Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by dottigirl »

I have two wheelsets that need cartridge bearings drifted out and replaced. LBS quotes I've had are more than the wheelsets are worth. None of the axles are shouldered.

I've researched what tools I need and watched multiple videos. There appears to be four main techniques, each requiring different tools:

- bearing extractor - I'd need to buy several for all the different sizes
- expanding drift - I can't find one of these for less than £60, and again, I'd need different sizes
- woodruff/half moon key and punch - possible but would have to work out the size keys needed for each bearing
- drift punches & hammer - possible

Bearing in mind I have a very limited budget, the latter two options look the most practical. I've been looking at Amazon, eBay and tool websites and am just getting more and more confused. Would a £10 pack of drift punches do the job(s)?

Does anyone have any recommendations please? Budget is £20 or less (as I'll need to buy bearings too).
Thank you.
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Paulatic
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by Paulatic »

A hammer and some blocks of wood.
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borderghost
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by borderghost »

Do many bike whels use these type of sealed bearings? I guess its saves worrying about over tightning the cones etc, are these sealed bearing wheels only found on high end bikes?
dottigirl
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by dottigirl »

Thanks Paulatic.

Unfortunately, that technique won't work as the axles aren't shouldered.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/102104766 ... 314863604/
dottigirl
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by dottigirl »

borderghost wrote:Do many bike whels use these type of sealed bearings? I guess its saves worrying about over tightning the cones etc, are these sealed bearing wheels only found on high end bikes?


One set are the OE Fulcrum 5.5s, the other Eastons. I don't think either set were worth much over £200 when new, if that.

The Mavics and Shimanos I've replaced previously were both loose bearings.
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gaz
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by gaz »

Suntour TA-340 is a very simple version of a bearing extractor tool.

Getting them out is the easy bit, with the right tools. Whereabouts are you?
Last edited by gaz on 28 Mar 2015, 11:48pm, edited 1 time in total.
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dottigirl
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by dottigirl »

gaz wrote:Suntour TA-340 is a very simple version of a bearing extractor tool.


How does that work please?

gaz wrote:Getting them out is the easy bit, with the right tools.


Great. :(
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gaz
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by gaz »

Ignore the black circular bits which are to assist with installing bearings. You squeeze the tool like a pair of tweezers, it passes through the bearing and pops open at the other side. You then drift it out with the axle and a hammer or other suitable implements. You might achieve something similar with an expanding bolt.

Edited my previous post whilst you were posting to ask your whereabouts, I now notice it's SW London.

PS: Some light reading on the subject of cartridge bearing hubs: http://www.bbinstitute.com/dl/dx_demo_chapter_13.pdf
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JonMcD
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by JonMcD »

Bodging time, but this guy gets the bearings out with some grunt and a lock ring tool. If you know any fixie riders they may have this tool (to remove the lock ring holding their rear sprocket in place).
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Mick F
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by Mick F »

Mine come out of my spare wheels easily.
Screwdriver and hammer. Just tap them out.

Re-inserting them is simple too. I use a socket from my socket-set and tap the socket squarely to push the bearing in.

Once the bearing is out, you will see the code number etched on it. Buy new bearings, these people are good.
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php

borderghost wrote:Do many bike whels use these type of sealed bearings? I guess its saves worrying about over tightning the cones etc, are these sealed bearing wheels only found on high end bikes?
This system is on the low-end hubs and there's tons of them out there.

Decent hubs will have cup and cone.
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Valbrona
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by Valbrona »

Buy the right ones and you might only need two bearing removers. But they ain't cheap.
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recordacefromnew
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by recordacefromnew »

If the old bearings are shot, you don't have to worry about damaging them during extraction. In that case the simplest way without tool is to use a screwdriver hitting the inner race in such a way that the cartridge is eased out evenly - if it comes out skewed the danger is for the hub shell to get distorted causing the interference fit between hub and cartridge to suffer.

To install the challenge is to press on the outer race only so as not to damage the bearing with lateral loading, which is why a large socket set can be useful so that one with a diameter between the inner and outer diameter of the outer race can be used as a press with e.g. a reasonably sized vice (or a block of wood and hammer... :roll: ), again ensuring that the cartridge isn't skewed when it goes in.

Cartridges bearings are not specific to low end or high end hubs/wheels in my view. For example afaik all current Mavic wheels have cartridge bearings.
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Mick F
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by Mick F »

recordacefromnew wrote:Cartridges bearings are not specific to low end or high end hubs/wheels in my view. For example afaik all current Mavic wheels have cartridge bearings.
I think that is a matter of opinion.

Maybe some better quality wheels have cartridge bearings, but those wheels aren't expected to live for long. Once the rims are worn, that's it. Pay more for your wheels, and you'll get cup and cone.

With better hubs, you have cup and cone bearings that can be maintained easily and repaired easily. These tend to be on the better wheel-sets or on good handbuilt wheels.

At least with handbuilt you can replace the rims, and the hubs will last and last and last.
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dottigirl
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by dottigirl »

Thanks to everyone so far.

Valbrona wrote:Buy the right ones and you might only need two bearing removers. But they ain't cheap.


I've been looking at the most troublesome bearing on the Fulcrum 5.5s, and there's hardly any angle or 'ledge' at all to sit a screwdriver, hook, drift or key onto. In fact, the inside of the hub is nearly as narrow as the bearing - I've tried an exploratory screwdriver, and it just won't stay in place as I hammer. I'm tempted to buy something like this, but not sure I can justify it:

https://youtu.be/27YCUMzKcfE

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00O ... R4NQ5RTAPW

I do have a third set of wheels (Fulcrum 7s) that would probably benefit from a new drive side bearing sooner or later, or at least a removal of the freehub to give it a service. Now, those I really don't want to **** up.

These are the two other options:

Drift punch technique:
http://www.hopetech.com/how-to-videos/# - click on Hubs then either of the first two videos. (That's a proper bloke for you.)
I can't find a drift punch like the one he uses, only these cheap drift punch sets:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001 ... O5BC7ARBQP

Woodruff/half moon key technique
https://youtu.be/1YfBoroIc_A
Budget option - an old axle plus woodruff key:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRIC-WOODRU ... 0787092856

Regarding reinstalling bearings, I was going to use the old bearings and the QR technique the Easton guy uses?


It may depend on how much my vintage steel Tiger goes for on eBay later...

And yes, with the mileage I do in the weather I do it, my aim is to get a nice handbuilt pair when I can afford them.
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531colin
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Re: Tools for drifting out bearings

Post by 531colin »

Install new bearings using the old bearing to push them in, so that the load is on the outer part of the bearing, not the inner part. Ideally with a suitable bit of rod to act as a dummy axle to keep everything central.
Removing the old bearings, make sure they come out straight, not lop-sided, which can damage the alloy hub.
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