Moving star nut down steerer

[Valbrona]

The SFN is a very questionable proposition.

Just fitted one into an 1 1/8" alloy steerer and it has gouged a series of grooves, as expected. They are devices typically designed for steel steerer tubes and where the interior diameter is larger and the material more durable.

Which begs the question ... are all star nuts the same? Do they come in different diameters? I hope I haven't jiggered up this fork.

[RickH]

IMHO Star nuts are the Spawn of Stan. I reckon the expanders designed for carbon fibre steerers are a much better solution.

Rick.

[Valbrona]

However, most if not all of the bungs out there are suited to carbon forks and where the diameter is quite a bit smaller than you would get with a metal steerer.

The Hope Head Doctor is a bung which is perhaps suited to steel steerer tubes - I couldn't get one inside the fork I am messing with and which has an alloy steerer.

[MartynWheeler]

Well I bit the bullet and did it this afternoon (I bought a star setting tool (£9.99) - more tools = good) and it was all pretty straightforward. Used an old stem as a guide to get a perfect edge, filed off burr and achieved a beautiful finish. The setting tool gave me piece of mind about getting the SFN nice and straight (took 2 whacks). Still cheaper than LBS and if I need to do it again I now have another shiny tool in my collection .

Looks much better than a big old stack of spacers!

Cheers,
Martyn

[MartynWheeler]

Took it out for a 70 mile spin, the weight reduction took about a millisecond off my PB!!

[Valbrona]

I like the idea of a spacer above the stem so that the full length of the clamp area of the stem clamps on to the steerer. However, just make sure that all of the threads of the star nut are engaged with the fixing bolt.

[DaveP]

I like the idea of a spacer above the stem so that the full length of the clamp area of the stem clamps on to the steerer. However, just make sure that all of the threads of the star nut are engaged with the fixing bolt.

That's not actually necessary, you know! The top cap bolt is only there to exert a slight preload to the headset bearings. You can remove it and ride in perfect safety, once the steerer clamp bolts in the stem have been tightened.
Just make sure to put a little grease on the threads - there's a definite risk of rain water seeping past the bolt head and running further down...