touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

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531colin
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by 531colin »



Yes, I wasn't that carried away, I'm afraid.
Unless I'm missing something, its just a list of stack and reach numbers. As I posted earlier, reach is measured vertically above the BB but in the plane of the head tube....so the higher you measure reach, the shorter it is....but as you said yourself, if the bars are too low, the rider will (by hook or by crook) put them up a bit, thereby reducing the reach....so I think he should have tabulated actual reach and stack, and calculated the reach at "standard stack" to allow more meaningful comparisons.
But if you are going to do all that, you might as well use ETT which doesn't change much with height because seat tube and head tube are roughly parallel, although you have to make allowances for different seat tube angles.
Stack is pretty much the same information as fork length plus head tube.
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531colin
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by 531colin »

james-o wrote:..........My 2 most ridden bikes at the moment are a Pinnacle Arkose 2 (all-round drop bar / CX) and a Jones MTB. They both get used for anything from short singletrack loops locally to multi-day rides on and off-road. Very different in geometry and 'attitude' to riding them but they cover a lot of common ground. ........


I'm guessing the fauCX bike is too steep to get an inch behind KOPS, so that's half an inch in front, and the Jones is an inch behind KOPS.
So on the drop bar bike you are sat further forward than me, but as I'm 67 with arthritic hands that's not surprising.
At KOPS and on the drops, I can have trouble keeping the front wheel down on the local double-arrow hill (if I bother to ride it rather than walk).....how do you get on sat an inch behind KOPS with (presumably) straight bars?
Its a year or three since I had a flat bar bike, but I remember sitting off the back of the saddle in order to get enough reach....I solved the reach issue with a 130mm stem and bar ends, which came to the same reach as the hoods.....that's when I decided I might as well just stick to drops!
Freddie
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by Freddie »

Stack seems to be just another name for EST (as though a non-sloping frame). What is the purpose of the reach measurement, what good is it compared to ETT?
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531colin
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by 531colin »

Tangled Metal wrote:...........http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/adventure/expedition/tour-de-fer...............


Well, they are making some of the right noises.

531colin wrote:.............
64 cm LHT head tube 226 fork 390 ETT 620
60 cm Spa head tube 222 fork 385 ETT 605
The LHT that appears to be 2 sizes bigger has 15mm longer top tube, and the headset is 9mm higher. ...........


Tour de Fer 60..head tube 190 ETT 594
....so unless its got monster forks, the headset will be lower than the Spa 60. Its actually probably a bit longer than the Spa, as seat tube angle is 73 vs, Spa 72.
I would rather have 72 deg seat, but the steering will be proper stable at 71 deg and 55 offset. Chainstays .....check
They make a production out of increasing the wall thickness of the downtube in order to stiffen it up a bit....I thought you get a bigger increase in stiffness for the increased weight by upping the diameter with the same wall thickness.
reohn2
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by reohn2 »

For touring/everyday use what's needed IMO,is to get the saddle,BB,and handlebars in the right places with no toe overlap,and neutral,well behaved steering.
And clearances for big tyres to ride the rutted tracks that in the UK are laughingly termed as roads,which are only set to deteriorate further.

'Slack' angles provide that.Steep don't.
IMO the Croix de Fer's angles are too steep.

60cm Salsa Vaya geometry:-
H/A 72deg,STA 72deg,Fork offset 45mm,ETT 600mm,ST Length 570mm,HT Length 215mm,SO 830mm,BB drop 75mm,C/stay length 450mm.

http://salsacycles.com/bikes/vaya/2015_vaya_2/geometry/
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531colin
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by 531colin »

Vaya fork is 405, add that to a 215 head tube then the front end of the 60 Vaya (where the frame actually measures 57) is 4mm taller than the front end of the 64 LHT.

For me using Brooks saddles the 72 deg seat angle on the Vaya might stop me seeking out a long layback seat post....Vaya steering geometry is 72 deg. 45mm offset which somebody coming from road bikes might prefer to the more "touring" orientated 71 deg. 55mm of the TOUR de Fer.
reohn2
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by reohn2 »

531colin wrote:Vaya fork is 405, add that to a 215 head tube then the front end of the 60 Vaya (where the frame actually measures 57) is 4mm taller than the front end of the 64 LHT.

Which can only be good :)

For me using Brooks saddles the 72 deg seat angle on the Vaya might stop me seeking out a long layback seat post....Vaya steering geometry is 72 deg. 45mm offset which somebody coming from road bikes might prefer to the more "touring" orientated 71 deg. 55mm of the TOUR de Fer.

:wink:
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james-o
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by james-o »

Told you we had light kit, we're gear freaks with backpacking/walking kit

In that case, fit / frame size for a 6'5" rider aside, I'd not discount a bike like a CX/all-roader or whatever we want to call them. I'd not say it's a better choice either, to be clear - no axe to grind there.
Image
For me, comfy as set up here ^ with enough kit to ride and camp and cook for 3 days. The geo on this bike is 71.5 HTA, 50mm offset, it's not what I'd call aggressive and there are more not-quite-/faux CX bikes like this on the market with similar numbers, generally the same HTA with less offset so more stable again, although that's less ideal with bags up front imo. Something like this is not such a sedate bike to ride as a trad tourer but it feels more like an audax bike on tarmac and copes with moderate off-road terrain well.

I'm guessing the fauCX bike is too steep to get an inch behind KOPS, so that's half an inch in front, and the Jones is an inch behind KOPS.
So on the drop bar bike you are sat further forward than me, but as I'm 67 with arthritic hands that's not surprising.
At KOPS and on the drops, I can have trouble keeping the front wheel down on the local double-arrow hill (if I bother to ride it rather than walk).....how do you get on sat an inch behind KOPS with (presumably) straight bars?
Its a year or three since I had a flat bar bike, but I remember sitting off the back of the saddle in order to get enough reach....I solved the reach issue with a 130mm stem and bar ends, which came to the same reach as the hoods.....that's when I decided I might as well just stick to drops!

Correct - the cx above has knee 10-12mm in front and 35-40mm saddle to bar drop. But I'm riding with my weight in the right place over the bike for something that's not that long between saddle and bar and there's only a light-touch amount of weight on my hands, I can unweight my grip and keep pedaling unsupported in that position. Core strength comes into this but my core strength's not great by any means. It rides up steep hills fine as it is, perhaps because in that situation being that half-inch further forward gives weighting between the wheels similar to having longer stay and slacker seat angle. BB drop on this bike is lower than a CX racer also and that helps. The MTB has Jones H-bars so it's got fore-aft grip range that offsets the potential negatives of the slack STA on steep climbs when seated - I just lean forwards a little to balance as needed. It also has a really low BB.
My CX bike sits me a little further forward over the BB but (for me) I'm not reaching that far forward or down either, my upper body isn't leaning forwards as it is on my road bike so my c of g isn't tipping me onto my hands- CX frame is 74 STA / 570mm ETT, with a + rise 90mm stem and 75-80mm reach bars. I don't think I set my bikes up to be 'negative hand-weight', just light. The Jones is lighter than most, the CX is light enough. Hence my take on it all that there's a lot more to a bikes layout than STA or any other single dimension, it's important that I'm in balance but also that I'm balanced over the bike, the bike being the way it is due to handling or component parameters as well as fit. So I have steeper STAs working well for me on some bikes, slacker on others. But what's been said in general here about a slacker STA is true and if I wanted to use a Brooks on the CX bike I'd be stuffed : )
Tangled Metal
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by Tangled Metal »

What is that bike?
reohn2
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by reohn2 »

Tangled Metal wrote:What is that bike?


The one in the photo is Pinnacle Arkrose,and that particular model doesn't have enough gears for most folks.
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Brucey
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by Brucey »

whilst I'm sure that it wouldn't suit everyone, I'm impressed that there is 3 day's worth of gear on that bike. That must be some pretty brutal paring down of kit going on there!

cheers
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Tangled Metal
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by Tangled Metal »

I reckon there is probably about 20 to 25 litres of space in those bags. I used to be able to go backpacking with 20 litres at about 4.5kg.

If you are not bothered by luxuries then you can pare down a lot. The hardest thing is to work out what is a luxury. So long as you are warm and preferably not wet when in your sleeping bag you can cope with pretty much everything. I'm guessing that with cyclists there are a few pockets in what you are wearing and your water is not inside your bags so you gain a bit there. I can see how it is easy to get by with actual bag volume of 20litres on a bike. Tools can be cable tied to the bike somehow I reckon. The old inner tube tied inside your seat cavity with tyre levers and glueless patches. I think someone on a cycling forum once said soemthing along the lines of you can cope with most things with a ??? and two cable ties. Can't remember what that one other thing was, perhaps a multi tool. Don't agree but you can get by with a kit in pockets and attached to the bike. I've got a good little pump that attaches to the side of the bottle underneath the cage using the bosses. Need to replace th bracket since it got stolen with my old bike.

If you look at the absolute bare minimum it is shelter (micro tarp and bivvy bag can weigh less than 300g), sleeping bag (mine is 690g in XL size and packs to less than a litre bottle size), mat (polycro sheet with a cutdown CCF mat - I got a 130g CCF mat and cut it down to torso size so it weighed less than 70g), stove/pot (options here but I went Ti Vargo TI lite pot with 100g Primus can with primus micron stove (old version at about 86g) which packs into the pot with lighter back up and 3 days worth of coffee/tea/other hot drinks) and basic clothes. You have clothes you are in and for 3 days what do you need? Warmth layer, cag and what else really? Food is seriously the biggest weight and volume I think, especially if you are a big fella with big calorie needs to just survive let alone exercise at walking/cycling intensity
Tangled Metal
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by Tangled Metal »

reohn2 wrote:
Tangled Metal wrote:What is that bike?


The one in the photo is Pinnacle Arkrose,and that particular model doesn't have enough gears for most folks.


So you managed with an Arkose. Would you ever want to try a pannier rack on it? Short chainstay and all.

I've seen some interesting faux cx bikes (as it is seemingly called by ppl on here) with chainstays of 430-435 and angles of about 72 down to one at 71.5 degrees (can;t find it now I;'ve lost the link). With what i think is the ETT length of 605 in one case. Would these figures result in a useable commuter with racks or are they likely to be another tankslapper waiting to happen?? :)
QUIST
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by QUIST »

You could try buying frame and forks and then getting LBS to build up bike. Very satisfying I did it with a Dolan Cyclo X Nice big/small cassette rings large chain wheel and rack with guards.(24 gears 52-28 chainrings and 13-28

I use it for touring with rack/panniers, weekly shop and audaxes. Very satisfying to know its the only only one...
james-o
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Re: touring bike or sportive/"adventure road" bike?

Post by james-o »

Tangled Metal, that's pretty much the sum of my kit as you list it there, 4-6kg generally. I've rarely done with less but that amount of kit with maybe a couple more layers can get you a long way. Used to use a similar amount of kit but with the sleeping/shelter kit swapped for a change of clothes for more comfortable tours staying at B+Bs in France.

Gearing on that bike is a 38 up front, 11-36 on the back usually. Same bottom gear as a 30-28. Not many gears but a good range if I'm not trying to break speed records on tarmac. No real need for it to be single-ring up front for these trips but it's great in winter mud.

chainstays of 430-435 and angles of about 72 down to one at 71.5 degrees (can;t find it now I;'ve lost the link). With what i think is the ETT length of 605 in one case. Would these figures result in a useable commuter with racks

Sounds like a Gravel Grinder geometry : ) Pannier clearance may be an issue still, might be worth checking. I think you'll need more than just an extra 5-10mm though, I could use a rack and small panniers on the Arkose but it'd not be carrying much more than I have there anyway. All depends on what size of bags go on it.
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