Seized seat post and stem

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
There's only a small 8 mm hole at the base of the seat tube at BB level.
I will need to get a piece of pipe and suck some up some fluid and blow it in to the seat tube.
Do I need to take care .............cough............cough........wheeze

[LollyKat]

I assume you are joking, but just in case you're not, go and buy some plastic pipettes like these. I've seen them in art and craft shops and you can probably get them in chemists.

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
Was going to use a funnel, but have some pipettes, good one.
I am assuming that steel is less affected if not at all.

[garygkn]

seatpost removal party palace: http://youtu.be/1PvZ0wlqA9g

Looks like a diy tool but seems to work?
How hard would that be to build?
Not sure if welding would be necessary?

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
Not sure about the BB tube staying round and true

[garygkn]

I've not started the ammonia yet as the bb cups are seized. I have the removal tool but would like to bolt this to the bottom bracket. The crank bolts are too short. I need a longer bolt is it possible that any one knows the spec for crank bolts?

Some good news - I managed to free up the stem bolt and remove the stem. There was grease present and no galvanic corrosion. The bolt shaft and threads were rusty.

[Brucey]

I think the thread is M8x1. It may be easiest to get someone to weld a standard thread onto an old crankbolt.

cheers

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
I am a bit surprised that the BB tools don't come with a securing bolt, maybe the pro ones do
I will have to knock up something as the skip bikes I am seeing have varying degrees of stubbornness, even the vice was complaining, remembering to hold one firm hand downward, I sufficed with a G clamp last time
Welding an extension on the crank bolt, will have a look.
Posted a m8 x 1.0p 50L bolt is £4.50, then you need some thick penny washer.
Unless you can walk into a screw shop with stock?

[Brucey]

Pedros make a tool that goes with other BB removal tools so that the remover is held on better.

The reason I suggested welding a length of standard studding onto a crankbolt is that then you don't need to struggle finding matching M8 x 1 nuts etc.; you can use M8 x 1.25 for this and they will be a bit stronger and a lot easier to replace when they get damaged, lost etc.

After quite a lot of struggle with tools of this kind my best suggestion is to bolt the removal tool to the work, and then use a large socket (on the end of a man-sized breaker bar, pref 3/4" drive) to wring it off. It isn't too difficult to make it so that the socket isn't going to slip off the tool, certainly a lot easier than stopping the tool from slipping off the work without using a bolt through it.

cheers

[Bikefayre]

Try WD40 penetrating oil. Plus remove the bolt and saddle completely and bang the seatpost with something to protect it such as wood with a hammer.

[garygkn]

I tried that hammer task with a 4lb hammer. I hit the post very hard but it didn't budge. I tried the heating it up with kettle water but nothing has moved. When I get a 40mm M8 bolt I'll lock the removal tool to the bb as this tool can slip off it's engagement quickly especially if you apply a lot of force. I'll need to get a steel pipe to use as an extension arm. Eventually when the bb is out I will apply the amonnia to the seat most via the seat tube.

I bent the gear hanger on Weds cycling back home. I tore off the rear mech going up a hill. The gears just folded into the wrong gear and the lot went.

The removal tool on the cassette keeps slipping usually I use an MTB skewer as they are longer to secure it to the cassette but as this bike is an MTB the skewer is to short. I think I need to get a shallower tool? Or a longer tandem rear skewer?

I'm staying positive as the stem is free. The hanger can be straightened. Eventually the bb should come out and then the seat post. Last the old cassette. I'm thinking marginal gains.

[fastpedaller]

I think the thread is M8x1. It may be easiest to get someone to weld a standard thread onto an old crankbolt.

cheers

It is indeed m8 x 1 - I bought a couple off our favourite auction site for less than £3 last week for this very task (only 60p more than buying 1, so made sense, just in case I lose 1!)

[garygkn]

I've no resources for welding and I don't know anyone who would do it so I think I'll try the M8 x 1 route. I'm not sure I'll get one locally? B&Q and Wickes are an option but I'm not sure they will have this size? Maybe an internet buy will be the easiest?

[Brucey]

if you are struggling to hold a cassette remover tool onto a hub, just get a length of M5 studding and a couple of nuts/washers (or QR nut ends ) and use that instead.

cheers

[garygkn]

Thanks for that top tip.
I will do that for sure.
I'm looking at Screwfix to get the M8 bolt although I can't see that they specify threads so I'll take the remover and an old cartridge bb with me.