SKS Chromoplastic mudguards

[don1]

Hi. I'm trying to fit some SKS mudguards to my new Croix de Fer. This is the first time I've had 'proper' mudguards on a bike, previous ones have been the flimsy clip on race bike type on previous bikes.

Anyway, front done, but struggling on the rear. I'm sure this is a silly question but advice would be appreciated.
There is a sliding bridge which is meant to be bolted to the bike but the screw hole seems to be pointing the wrong way for the bracket. Is the usual resolution to simply bend the bracket 90 degrees so that it mates up with the hole ?

[gaz]

My usual resolution is to discard the bracket and drill a hole through the guard. Secure with a stainless mushroom headed bolt and a washer both sides.

If that gives more clearance than you'd like make a suitable spacer.

Be careful, you get one chance of getting the hole in the ideal position.

[Mick F]

Yep.
That's the way mine are fitted both front and rear.

A good spacer is a valve securing ring/nut.
I use two on the front mudguard and one on the rear.

[don1]

Thanks for the quick reply. It seemed the way to go but just wanted to bounce it off you guys.

[Psamathe]

Just checked on my Croix de Fer (2014 version) and the mudguard hole is the correct orientation for the SKS Chromoplastics mudguards (which I have fitted and was thus confused by your photo).

Is it possible that the small bit on the frame has been fitted/drilled by manufacturer the wrong way ? 'Cos it just seems (to me) a weird change between 2014 and 2015 models.

Ian

[don1]

Hi Ian. I thought that initially myself, but the marketing pics on the website has the threaded hole in the same orientation as on my bike so I assumed that if it was indeed a mistake on mine then it's unlikely they'd have used a incorrectly built frame for the publicity shots.
Although it's still a possibility I guess.

[Psamathe]

Hi Ian. I thought that initially myself, but the marketing pics on the website has the threaded hole in the same orientation as on my bike so I assumed that if it was indeed a mistake on mine then it's unlikely they'd have used a incorrectly built frame for the publicity shots.
Although it's still a possibility I guess.

I don't have experience of different ways of fixing these things nor of different bikes. Just what I have on my own.

Ian

[Brucey]

if the stainless bridge is wide enough, you can drill a hole through the horizontal part of that, bolt it into position, and then crimp it to secure the mudguard in the usual way.

That way the mudguard can be trimmed at the ends later on (or fitted onto another bike) without having to deal with a hole in the wrong place.

If you do drill through the mudguard, I can't overemphasise how important it is to spread the load with a (shaped) penny washer both sides. You wouldn't believe how many mudguards I see that are cracked through not being fitted properly in this way, including steel mudguards on bikes from well-known makers who should know better.

cheers

[Valbrona]

Putting the fixing hole on the underside of the brake bridge is pants because it usually means that the mudguard gets mounted too far away from the tyre and you subsequently have to invent some kind of spacer device that goes in between brake bridge and mudguard. Don't frame designers get this?

[D363]

Bending the bracket seems to be the intended idea and would at least save making holes in the guard. More of a faff to fit though.

[Dean]

Alternatively, you could bore two pairs of holes in the guards and thread a couple of cable ties through - it's a fairly common bodge, and considerably more secure than the crappy bracket.

[531colin]

Putting the fixing hole on the underside of the brake bridge is pants because it usually means that the mudguard gets mounted too far away from the tyre and you subsequently have to invent some kind of spacer device that goes in between brake bridge and mudguard. Don't frame designers get this?

its just shopping.............http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NYLON-WASHER-PLASTIC-WASHERS-VARIOUS-QUANTITIES-M2-M2-5-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10/290868208199?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28111%26meid%3D61a20d594306442b935454b82844fbcc%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D11472%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D400563578743&rt=nc

[reohn2]

Or it can be a matter of carefully drilling the m/guard in the correct place using a buttonheaded S/S bolt through it,with a large washer either side to protect the mudguard.
Then using more washers or threaded valve securing nuts,or rollers from old chains,or a piece cut from the barrel of an old S/S pen,or a concave and convex pair of V brake pad spacers,or oversized S/S nuts,etc,etc.All or any comination of the above can used to space the mudguard the desired distance from the tyre.
It's also a direct fit and neater than a mudguard bridge

[Valbrona]

Or it can be a matter of carefully drilling the m/guard in the correct place using a buttonheaded S/S bolt through it,with a large washer either side to protect the mudguard.
Then using more washers or threaded valve securing nuts,or rollers from old chains,or a piece cut from the barrel of an old S/S pen,or a concave and convex pair of V brake pad spacers,or oversized S/S nuts,etc,etc.All or any comination of the above can used to space the mudguard the desired distance from the tyre.
It's also a direct fit and neater than a mudguard bridge

Oh, easy.

[Mick F]

Putting the fixing hole on the underside of the brake bridge is pants because it usually means that the mudguard gets mounted too far away from the tyre and you subsequently have to invent some kind of spacer device that goes in between brake bridge and mudguard. Don't frame designers get this?

Yes, they do get it.

I had my Mercian built that way, and it's brilliant.
Using the SS clamps is pants.