Single Speed

[blinkered]

After many years I now have an essentially flat commute (between Nottingham and Derby). I think this is a good excuse to try out a single speed to see if I like it and if I do great as that should be less maintenance and fiddling with gears!

I could buy a frame and wheelset etc but that seems like a lot of work (and cost) to dip my toe in the water. I have a 9sp Shimano geared bike that I use for commuting on and wondered if I could strip off the derailers get a conversion kit somthing like this: http://goo.gl/l3mylq and a single speed chainset to try it out. That would leave the brakes using the shimano levers but no gear cables.

Will this work at all?
This frame has semi vertical dropouts (not track ends) would that work & would I be able to use a quick release as suggested by Sheldon?
Will I need a chain tensioner?

That would mean that I could later get a frame and build up a bike and reuse the chainset and I guess have to sell the other parts as seconds but presumably much less costly than a whole bike.

[beardy]

Cant you just tell yourself not to change gear whilst you are riding the commute?

[[XAP]Bob]

First effort is to simply not change gear.

Then you can try a few different ratios to decide what you like.
Then you can lock the derailleurs in position (screw both limit screws right down)
Then you can switch out wheels, or just use loads of spacers and a single sprocket...

You'll need a tensioner unless you have horizontal drop outs (or can work out a chainring/sprocket combination that give you an exact chain length...)

[hamster]

Add a tensioner and buy some single chainring bolts (about £5) and you are ready. There are ghetto solutions involving the rear mech, but take a bit more fiddling.

It's worth it. My MTB singlespeed has needed no maintenance other than the odd chain and brake block replacement for 4 years.

[phil parker]

As a rough guide, you will probably end up with gearing between 66" and 76". I used 73" throughout the summer (with some short inclines) and I have just swapped down to 69" for the winter and the expectation of fighting stronger headwinds. Once you get used to single speed you can then move on to fixed

Caveat: yes, I know some people will have different gearing to that!

[Si]

If you think that you can experience the benefits or features of proper SS just by not changing gear on a multigeared bike then you'll probably never bother going SS - the two are a fair way apart.

Also, if you try to find what gear ratio you need just by trying to stay in one sprocket on a multigeared bike then you'll probably end up with too small a gear when you go SS!

[Mick F]

Then you can lock the derailleurs in position (screw both limit screws right down)

Dunno about other derailleurs, but there has never been any that I've used that you can do that with. You can trim out the top and bottom cogs, but that's about it.

Good idea though.

[[XAP]Bob]

Depends on the range of adjustment, but I've been able to pull one right across to a hub gear using the top limit (the spring kept is pressed that way)

Think I wound the lower stop all the way in, can't recall if it bottomed out or caught on the top limit.

[blinkered]

Cant you just tell yourself not to change gear whilst you are riding the commute?

TBH the gearing on this bike is a PITA to set correctly which is another reason I am thinking about this.

Once you get used to single speed you can then move on to fixed

This is also something I would like to do... baby steps

Add a tensioner and buy some single chainring bolts (about £5) and you are ready. ...

Thanks, this is what I am trying to achieve. Simple solution with minimal change in case I don't get on with the setup.

I think i'll get some parts and give it a go

[hamster]

Then you can lock the derailleurs in position (screw both limit screws right down)

Dunno about other derailleurs, but there has never been any that I've used that you can do that with. You can trim out the top and bottom cogs, but that's about it.

Good idea though.

The trick is to get a stub of gear cable about 5 cm long, fit it into the derailleur so that the end nipple is in the adjuster and clamp normally. Then screw the adjuster to set the derailleur in the right place.

[mjr]

Also, if you try to find what gear ratio you need just by trying to stay in one sprocket on a multigeared bike then you'll probably end up with too small a gear when you go SS!

Why is this? Power loss through the mechs or what?

[Neil C]

If you think that you can experience the benefits or features of proper SS just by not changing gear on a multigeared bike then you'll probably never bother going SS - the two are a fair way apart.

Also, if you try to find what gear ratio you need just by trying to stay in one sprocket on a multigeared bike then you'll probably end up with too small a gear when you go SS!

So what are the differences, please?
I don't want to make too many mistakes when I give it a go.

[Si]

I find that the power loss through the mech plus the possible less than perfect chain line are worth a couple of teeth on the sprocket. I can climb stuff on the SS that I just find impossible on the geared bike using the same gear ratio.

There is also the weight penalty (less chain, fewer sprockets, fewer chain rings, no mechs, lighter brake levers,etc) that can mount up if the bike is fairly stripped down for speed.

But it's a different experience too......on your normal geared bike you probably don't notice much noise from the transmission, but when I went to SS then back to gears I couldn't believe the clattering and squeaking that it was all making, plus the chain slap on rough roads.

And the psychological side of it......you know that you can't bail into a smaller gear so you have to fully commit from the get go on steeper hills.

[stewartpratt]

If by "semi-vertical dropouts" you mean what are generally called horizontal dropouts (as used by eg the Surly Cross Check, and as were common on old steel road bikes) then you will have enough leeway to go without a tensioner; try http://eehouse.org/fixin/fixmeup.php to check your configuration if you want to be sure.

You may or may not get away with a QR. The bigger your rear sprocket and the better your QR (Shimano being the best) - and the lighter yourself - the more likely you are to get away with it. Otherwise you may need a chain tug, or to replace your QR axle with a longer solid axle and track nuts.

As Si says, staying in one gear is really nothing like using a dedicated singlespeed setup, particularly a "proper" one without a tensioner.

Make sure you use a proper singlespeed sprocket and, if possible, an unramped ring. I would personally suggest sticking with geared chains, though, as they're less fussy about chainline and shouldn't really fail any quicker. If you do, then avoid 1/8" rings/sprockets which (natch) require 1/8 chains.

[mjr]

I've noticed that I can cruise my 3 speed tester at a slightly higher gear than my Streetfinder, which I suspected was due to a better chain line and no mech. It's not a weight penalty as the bike weighs about the same (might have some things less, but it's crude steel rather than OK aluminium, plus a steel chain guard).

I agree about the noise difference: the 3 speed can be nearly silent in low/first, although after that the Sturmey Archer ticking takes over! It's different to the whirring and slurping of a derailleur though.

You can always bail into the 24" / 2' gear!