Pedal Clunk

[mjr]

The bike fell onto its left side and destroyed the non-serviceable rubber block pedal, so I bought some Wellgo LU868 http://www.i-ride.co.uk/Wellgo-LU868.aspx to replace them. If only life was that simple!

Now I've a clunk under pressure as the right pedal passes one o'clock which I'm pretty sure is a small lump that I think I can see at one point on the pedal spindle where it enters the pedal body, found at my second strip-and-rebuild of the pedal when I thought this might be something wrong with its bearings. I can't make the clunk happen with the bike on a workstand so this lump idea isn't confirmed. I found it by marking the top of the spindle before removing the pedal before the second strip down, to see what was moving where on/in the pedal at the clunk point, and the lump passes the top at that point. It happens about the same with the pedal body either way up.

I'm a bit nervous about filing this lump in case the edges of a resulting flat causes a worse clunk. I'm tempted to just keep riding it and see if it improves as lump or body get worn to match.

I'm pretty sure it's the pedal rather than the crank or something the bike side of it because I've put the old right pedal back on and it didn't happen but I'm now inclined to triple-check by doing that again.

It might be something to do with the pedal-crank interface but I don't really understand how.

Any advice or ideas, please? The poll is basically for a summary.

[Brucey]

I'd check that it isn't something to do with the cranks or the BB first just to be sure.

If you can post a picture of your lumpy bearing/spindle that might be useful. Wellgo pedal bearings are not the best (MKS bearings are much better once run in) but Wellgo ones are usually OK if they are set up right. But could it be the rubber bits loose on the aluminium pedal frame or something? Is the locknut tight against the cone? Are both bearing cups tight in the pedal body?

cheers

[mjr]

Thanks. It could be the rubber bits loose on the aluminium pedal frame or something like that. I'll take a closer look when I take it apart again, plus take pictures (I guess I was lazy and didn't because it meant cleaning the grease off my hands so I could work the camera). I'll probably wait for a brighter day, though.

Both bearing cups seemed tight in the pedal body - that actually leaves a small gap between the top of the crankside cup and the bottom of the outer seal which looks ugly to me but I think is only cosmetic when looking inside.

The locknut seemed tight against the cone but it's not the easiest to check, which is part of the reason I took it apart a second time.

I'll triple-check the BB and crank by riding with the old pedal again. That should be nearly conclusive, shouldn't it?

MKS don't have an equivalent of the LU868 do they? The MKS 3000R rubber blocks look like the metal end caps stand proud of the blocks, ready to chew shoe soles of any feet as wide as mine.

[Brucey]

if you are looking at MKS pedals the 'comfort lite' model may be worth a look; however it isn't rubber, it is resin, so might well be a bit slippy. It presumably will survive knocks and scrapes but a heavy impact may break the body.

Personally I think there is a gap in the market because there are few enough pedals that have a robust flat aluminium cage with rubber inserts. Others must feel likewise;



and I have thought of something similar myself. The above insert is cut from a broken skate deck.

This kind of pedal



has a really good flat side to it as well as an SPD-alike thingy on the other side (which won't work with some worn genuine SPD cleats IME). The rubber inserts are hard but give reasonable grip and the platform is very wide and flat. There is more than one manufacturer that uses this body style and the bearings vary in quality.

cheers

[mjr]

No there are not many options. I have Vavert Commuters on another bike but that is a mishmash anyway and they would not really look right on a vintage bike. If I can confirm whether they are user-serviceable then I might get some anyway if the Wellgos don't work out.

[Brucey]

I think the Vaverts have serviceable ball-bearings but I have not dismantled any to be sure of it. They are very similar to some BBB pedals as well as some that are supplied OEM on Giant bicycles; if so the seals vary in quality with version. I believe that the LBS rates them as 'alright, but they break a bit easily'. I think they mean that the shallow alloy arms can break if given a heavy knock.

I have often wondered if rubber blocks could simply be bolted to (say) these;



-if so this would be an easy solution for a roadster. The sealing isn't great but the bearings are otherwise good quality. If you add a lube port (and use it) they make a good all-weather pedal.

cheers

[mjr]

Here's one picture. It's not great - the phone camera doesn't seem to like small parts. Unless it's good enough, I'll find a standalone camera soon and could take pictures of other bits then if asked. The bike is unrideable while I wait for another part to arrive on Friday.

The arrow is pointing at the ring where the spindle fits into the pedal body. Near that point, there is no chamfer and it looks like a square corner. You may be able to see the chamfer below that point catching the light and also tapering to a square corner at the arrowhead. It also looks slightly damaged/worn at that point, which is why I suspect the square lump is wearing down as it clunks.

[mjr]

Update: went out on the bike today, different right pedal, no clunk.

[sreten]

Hi,

Are we talking about a brand new pair of pedals for £7 and
one of them doesn't work properly, and you want to fix it ?

Get real, insist on new replacements, and then have a go
at fixing it if you really want to, if you can spare the time.

rgds, sreten.

[Redvee]

Where's the 'Buy a new Bike' option in the poll?