I have dug out some old Record 8 speed Ergos. The down shifter lever on the right unit doesn't quite return to its place without a nudge. Just a tad.
Is this symptomatic of a dodgy G spring. Too lazy to pull them off to see.
Ergopower question
Re: Ergopower question
I had exactly the same levers and problem. I bought a can of spray on grease (can't recall which one at the moment). A quick blast with that and hey presto! Fully functioning again.
But it might be the G spring or the ratchet, or both. Each are reasonably easy to replace, if you fancy an hour or so of interesting fettling
But it might be the G spring or the ratchet, or both. Each are reasonably easy to replace, if you fancy an hour or so of interesting fettling
Current pedalable joys
"you would be surprised at the number of people in these parts who nearly are half people and half bicycles"
"you would be surprised at the number of people in these parts who nearly are half people and half bicycles"
Re: Ergopower question
Oh this has had the lube job. Actually I find that contact cleaner first helps. It's not that I reckon. Got the springs in the shed but I was too lazy to actually do anything.
Re: Ergopower question
Do you mean the paddle lever?
If so, you can look inside easily enough without even taking the Ergo off the 'bars by removing the brake lever.
I've had two problems with my paddles and both were springs. One was a broken spiral return spring and the other was the small hinge spring that allows the paddle to retract when you brake. I kept on the road by making a new spiral-ish return spring from a paper clip whilst waiting for the new spring. It actually worked quite well.
If you mean the button, it's a full strip-down to see inside I'm afraid. Fault is unlikely to be a G Springs as they tend to give a weak system and is shown up as ghost shifting or imprecise indexing. The button has a small spring to actuate the ratchet, so it could be that or the ratchet itself.
If so, you can look inside easily enough without even taking the Ergo off the 'bars by removing the brake lever.
I've had two problems with my paddles and both were springs. One was a broken spiral return spring and the other was the small hinge spring that allows the paddle to retract when you brake. I kept on the road by making a new spiral-ish return spring from a paper clip whilst waiting for the new spring.
It actually worked quite well.If you mean the button, it's a full strip-down to see inside I'm afraid. Fault is unlikely to be a G Springs as they tend to give a weak system and is shown up as ghost shifting or imprecise indexing. The button has a small spring to actuate the ratchet, so it could be that or the ratchet itself.
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Ergopower question
Its the big paddle. Just doesn't go all the way to its proper place and thus stops the button from moving. A gentle nudge sorts it at the moment.
Re: Ergopower question
The front bits are separate to the rear bits within the Ergo.
The shaft that runs through the unit is turned by the paddle mechanism against the rear derailleur return spring and released by the button mechanism in the rear of the Ergo. There is a spiral spring in the rear that "helps" to balance the rear mech return spring so the paddle and button mechanisms aren't overloaded.
To get at the front bits, knock out the brake lever pivot shaft with a hammer and punch. You can do this whilst the Ergo is still on the bike by leaning the 'bars against a wall for support as you knock the pivot out. Obviously, you have to remove the brake cable first, but the brake lever will come away and you can see the paddle mechanism clearly.
The paddle actuates a ratchet system and turns the teeth on the front cog. There's a small spring to keep the ratchet tooth against the cog teeth and there's a spiral spring as a return spring for the paddle. Also there's a small spring to allow the paddle to move backwards as the brake lever is pulled.
As you can see all this with the brake lever away, you should be able to see what is wrong.
If you can see the problem, please note that the paddle mechanism cannot be removed unless the Ergo is removed off the 'bars first because you have to undo the rear nut to release the shaft through the front, but at least you can investigate before complete removal and let the dog see the rabbit. Maybe you can replace the front springs easily enough without going the whole hog.
Watch this.
I know it's 10sp, but it's basically the same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OocYpHXJ3Y
The shaft that runs through the unit is turned by the paddle mechanism against the rear derailleur return spring and released by the button mechanism in the rear of the Ergo. There is a spiral spring in the rear that "helps" to balance the rear mech return spring so the paddle and button mechanisms aren't overloaded.
To get at the front bits, knock out the brake lever pivot shaft with a hammer and punch. You can do this whilst the Ergo is still on the bike by leaning the 'bars against a wall for support as you knock the pivot out. Obviously, you have to remove the brake cable first, but the brake lever will come away and you can see the paddle mechanism clearly.
The paddle actuates a ratchet system and turns the teeth on the front cog. There's a small spring to keep the ratchet tooth against the cog teeth and there's a spiral spring as a return spring for the paddle. Also there's a small spring to allow the paddle to move backwards as the brake lever is pulled.
As you can see all this with the brake lever away, you should be able to see what is wrong.
If you can see the problem, please note that the paddle mechanism cannot be removed unless the Ergo is removed off the 'bars first because you have to undo the rear nut to release the shaft through the front, but at least you can investigate before complete removal and let the dog see the rabbit. Maybe you can replace the front springs easily enough without going the whole hog.
Watch this.
I know it's 10sp, but it's basically the same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OocYpHXJ3Y
Mick F. Cornwall