Drop handlebars uncomfortable downhill

[elioelio]

I bought a Dawes Galaxy a couple of months ago and recently took it to Scotland for a few days. I find the bike comfortable, and riding on the hoods of the drop handlebar is comfy. But the brakes... is it just me that finds the drop handlebar and brake combination on the hoods completely awful? I don't think my hands are that small but its fairly hard to brake. I've got used to it now - riding around flat Norfolk. However, going down hills in Scotland (when going downhill should be a pleasure) was so uncomfortable. I had to brake a lot due to the steepness, wetness and windiness of the road. Using brakes on the hood too uncomfortable. So I used the drops - still really uncomfortable (but safer) but in a different way. I tried turning the handle bars around but further forward hurt by back, and further back put too much pressure on my hands.
I'm off to New Zealand for 3 months so need a bike that's comfy downhill! But also on a major budget.

I'm just baffled as to why handlebars are made in this ridiculous fashion. Why are the brakes not just horizontal under the hoods? Is it just me? If there's a technical reason I'd love to hear it. I've thought about getting extra brakes - but I like to use a handlebar bag. I could try to sell it - its only a couple of months old.
Could get a bike with cross bars but with some 'ends'. I always found riding on the cross bar uncomfortable as it hurt my wrists so riding thumbs forward is better. Are the 'ends' on cross handlebars similar to hood on drop handlebars? I guess they're wider apart?

Sorry for the ramble! Any feedback welcome!
Thanks

[Valbrona]

What handlebars you got fitted?

Lots of different handlebars out there all with different shapes and dimensions. You are lucky because shallow drop/short reach bars are widely available these days, like FSA Compacts and Deda RHM.

Or maybe you are just poorly fitted to the bike and are perhaps reaching too far or too low, or both.

[Mark1978]

Poor braking from the hoods is quite common. I found it terrible with 105 but with Ultegra it's great. I also found the levers a bit of a stretch from the drops but in my bike fit the fitter rotated the bars a tiny bit and it was instantly much easier!

Drop bars do take a bit of adaptation. They aren't instantly intuitive the way flat bars are but it's worth the effort.

[Audax67]

I had horrible tendinitis on the outer sides of my wrists before I rolled my bars down a bit. That made braking from the drops easier too.

Mucking about with the angle when the bike's on a turbo trainer is easiest.

Could be that the lever position on the bars isn't optimal either. Alas, it's a dog to change.

[Mick F]

Poor braking from the hoods is quite common.

So I gather, but I've never had any problems. Been using drops since 1982.

I now use Campag Ergos 10sp (before that, same design 9sp) and I can do an emergency stop from the hoods. Braking from the drops is more efficient of course, but from the hoods it could never be described as in-efficient.

I believe it's all in the shape and reach of the levers - plus not having small hands.
Also, having the levers in the correct position.

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[iandriver]

Have you thought about secondary levers? http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/product ... -cx-levers

[531colin]

No change as a result of all this anguish, then?........http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=85143

[Si]

I have to say that I've always found the same with braking from the hoods, until I changed my galaxy to V brakes with the tektro V brake drop bar levers. Finally a brake I was happy to use from the hoods! Of course, these aren't STI/Ergo so you have to put your gear levers somewhere else (BEs, DTs, Kellys, etc) but on a tourer that shouldn't be much of a hardship.

But, as I never used the drops I ended up cutting the drops off and turning the bar upside down to produce bullhorns - excellent braking from a comfortable position.

[CREPELLO]

As Si alludes to, the brakes may be the problem, if they are badly set up canti's - they usually are. If your bike has bar end levers, follow Si's suggestion, but if it has STI's, the remedy can be mini V's, which are compatible with STI.

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
Without even looking at the bike yet I might suggest that the Brake levers do no marry with the brake calliper selection
Unless they are part of same model group
I have a Raliegh Randonnuer and the brakes were not atrocious.....just bloody dangerous
The unbranded slope back levers (drops) were to blame, enter some aero 105's and I can stop on a 1:6 loaded no problem, they are coupled with LX canti's.(MTB Type).
Probably as good as entry model shimano canti's with unbranded levers on my MTB and stop anywhere with 35kgs all up bike weight, you do need large hands with four fingers tho.
Vee brakes I never use more than two fingers with flats, I am too *&^%$%&* nevous that the wheel with lock

Raliegh drops are the same for a quick stop you need all fingers and of course without the levers beeing too low it is some what of a try to get your arm into position for maximum effect, like I said these are old aero 105's.
Drop brakes just go with the terrotory of drops.
I cant comment on integral gear shift levers as I have neved used them but they look longer levers

If you are not anticipating doing an average of a moving 15 mph all day then you probably do not need drops (head wind excluding of course) Their ownly use I can see is if you are moving above 15 mph then you will feel the wind and it will feel like a head wind too.
Of course the drops come with the bike so judging by the vast users who ride on hoods, then it goes that hood braking should be good
If not the assemblers of bikes should not have a liciense to sell bikes I.M.O.

Drops are for getting a move on not posing on the hoods
You might well have a better ride with flats and nice long bend in bar extentions, the max reach should be equal to riding on hoods, and you can lift or tilt the ends without affecting brake efficiency.
I always move to the levers when I anticipate the use of brakes and then the absolute aero body position is not needed when you are slowing down anyway............

[NigelCliffe]

Norfolk, depending where you are in Norfolk, I would suggest a trip to Madgett's in Diss to discuss options to improve things ?

Secondary levers on the flat bit of the bars should be possible, even with a bar bag. You might need an extender for the bar bag to get clearance, but should still work.

As others have said, perhaps the brakes on the bike and the levers are not a good match. Certain combinations of lever and brake won't work, though I'd expect a new bike to not have those basic mistakes on them from new. Some cantilever designs need some care in setting up the straddle wire to work properly; they can easily be badly setup - if the bike wasn't checked carefully by someone who knows what to look at on delivery, it could be wrong.


- Nigel

[OnYourRight]

1. Assuming the brakes have already bedded in and are still unsatisfactory, replace the brake pads with Kool Stop Salmon pads.

2. Slide the saddle back to reduce the weight on your hands, which is both uncomfortable in itself and impedes proper control (steering, braking). Judging from this thread and your other one, you’re sitting too far forward. This is especially common with women (who tend to have longer legs compared to their torso length) and Dawes frames (which tend to be long).

3. Replace the stem with a shorter one.

Actually do the above. It won’t cost very much (compared to the bike), and these problems won’t go away by themselves.

[Dave W]

I use One One Midge Bars. Get some funny looks from fellow cyclists but I love them. Wrist position is turned in and suits me better than normal drops. I've never liked the hand position on normal drop bars always feels very unnatural to me (but then I am odd).

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[Jeff31]

Hi Elioelio

I had the same sort of problem with drop handlebars and decided that as I rarely used the drops to change to what are variously described as base, cow horn, stoker or aero bars. I use the XLC Pro base bar, available from SJSCycles, with bar end shifter and aero brake levers. I feel much happier now when descending as I can remain sitting "upright" whilst having good control of the brakes and a secure grip on the bars. There are a variety of similar bars but you need to be aware of them fitting your stem and the bar diameters at the points you wish to fit your chosen brake levers. If your bike has BE shifters and separate brake levers then then you may only need to purchase the bar and probably new cables and redoing the bar tape.

Jeff

[foxyrider]

Poor braking from the hoods is quite common.

So I gather, but I've never had any problems. Been using drops since 1982.

Also, having the levers in the correct position.

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In my case its since 1976!

So many people have their levers positioned in what they believe to be the best position but is inherently wrong for efficient braking, if you have the levers turned up you are placing your hand in a much more awkward position to brake from - most new bikes I've seen have this fault, some manufacturers even set the bikes up for their brochures incorrectly. Try setting the bars so the levers are set with the hood parallel to the ground as in Mick F's dia 1 - makes a huge difference, the levers could be fitted to the bars in the wrong position - its a Dawes so its quite likely! Lots of things can make a difference and I think most have been covered in this thread - reach, lever position, brake compatability, bar shape and size.

Bar top levers might well be a big part of the solution but must be set up correctly to work properly. The drop part of the bar is not there for braking from, you can but your fingers are further away from the lever than using the hoods, guessing you have Shimano levers, have you tried using the 'small hand' inserts? not suggesting you have small hands but they reduce the reach a few mm and have helped some of my customers.

Good luck