10 Speed Cassette on 126 OLN Frame ?

[joolz1967]

My Brian Rourke 753 frame is set up as a fixie at the moment. I would like to restore it back to have modern Campy 10 speed ergos.
The question is, the Reynolds 753 cannot be cold set to 130 OLN on the rear triangle. A Campy 10 speed hub does fit in, but has to be pulled in with some force.
Would the best solution be get the axle modified to maybe 129/128mm or take off a couple of mm on the non-drive side, and re-dish the wheel to centre it up ?
Any suggestions would be much appriciated.

Regards, Julian.

[Brucey]

I would suggest that you use an 8 from 9 or a 9 from 10 cassette on a shimano 7s freehub body built to 126-128mm. If you try for 10s @ 126mm you will have a pretty weak wheel or an overstressed frame. Campag hubs are less easy than shimano to respace and optimise for dish.

If you use 10s ergos/campag rear mech on a 9s shimano spaced cassette you can make it work with a tweak on the rear mech cable mount.

cheers

[joolz1967]

I would suggest that you use an 8 from 9 or a 9 from 10 cassette on a shimano 7s freehub body built to 126-128mm. If you try for 10s @ 126mm you will have a pretty weak wheel or an overstressed frame. Campag hubs are less easy than shimano to respace and optimise for dish.

If you use 10s ergos/campag rear mech on a 9s shimano spaced cassette you can make it work with a tweak on the rear mech cable mount.

cheers

Many Thanks for this Brucey, I've looked into this. The parts I have to use right now are...
Campag 2009 10sp shifters
Campag C10 Chain
Campag 10sp Rear Mech.

So, I will need to purchase...

Shimano rear hub 126OLN / 7 speed free hub.
Shimano 8 speed cassette
Can I use the above parts together without any further mods ?

Julian.

[Brucey]

I'd suggest you either buy a 9s cassette and lose one (the smallest, probably) or a 10s cassette and do the same. This will give you 8 at 9s spacing or 9 at 10s spacing.

You'll need to use a drop of Loctite on the lockring, unless you fit a larger lockring. Normally the second smallest sprocket also has serrations on it, but they normally won't engage with the original lockring because it is too small.

The 9-from-10 cassette may just work OK with the 10s indexing but the 8-from-9 option will require that you remount the cable in the rear mech pinch bolt so that the mech moves a little further per unit of cable pull. You may be able to do this with a tabbed washer of some kind, e.g. from a shimano rear mech or the special campag converter washer for front mechs (from about ten years ago when they changed the pull ratio) might do the trick.

cheers

[recordacefromnew]

In the scheme Brucey suggested you will need a Shimano/sram 9 speed cassette, preferably without a spider, of a suitable range (for the rear mech capacity and perhaps existing chain length), so that you can squeeze 8 of the 9 sprockets you want onto the Shimano 7 speed freehub, and to attach the cable hubbub style (http://www.ctc.org.uk/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/derailleur-gears/shimergo) to allow indexing with a Campag 10 speed shifter.

If you use 7 sprockets of an 8 speed Shimano/sram cassette instead you wouldn't need to mess with hubbub cabling for indexing, at the expensive of one fewer rear sprocket.

Alternatively Highpath (http://www.highpath.net/highpath/cycles/info/cassettes.html) sells special spacers to let you fit 8 Shimano sprockets in Campag 10 speed spacing onto a 7 speed Shimano hub, allowing you to use your existing 10 speed Campag rear mech.

You can still buy new old stock 126mm OLN 7 speed Shimano rear hubs, but it is worth checking to be sure that it has not corroded inside. Recently I found the vast majority of a batch having rusted on the non-drive side, ruining the bearings, and in many cases even the cups, essentially killing the hubs.

[Brucey]

In the scheme Brucey suggested you will need a Shimano/sram 9 speed cassette, preferably without a spider, of a suitable range (for the rear mech capacity and perhaps existing chain length), so that you can squeeze 8 of the 9 sprockets you want onto the Shimano 7 speed freehub, and to attach the cable hubbub style (http://www.ctc.org.uk/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/derailleur-gears/shimergo) to allow indexing with a Campag 10 speed shifter.

If you use 7 sprockets of an 8 speed Shimano/sram cassette instead you wouldn't need to mess with hubbub cabling for indexing, at the expensive of one fewer rear sprocket......

not convinced....don't forget this is a campag rear mech, not a shimano one...

cheers

[recordacefromnew]

In the scheme Brucey suggested you will need a Shimano/sram 9 speed cassette, preferably without a spider, of a suitable range (for the rear mech capacity and perhaps existing chain length), so that you can squeeze 8 of the 9 sprockets you want onto the Shimano 7 speed freehub, and to attach the cable hubbub style (http://www.ctc.org.uk/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/derailleur-gears/shimergo) to allow indexing with a Campag 10 speed shifter.

If you use 7 sprockets of an 8 speed Shimano/sram cassette instead you wouldn't need to mess with hubbub cabling for indexing, at the expensive of one fewer rear sprocket......

not convinced....don't forget this is a campag rear mech, not a shimano one...

cheers

You are right. That assumes the use of a Shimano (but not 10 speed mtb) rear mech.

I know the sprocket spacing difference is not huge, but how do you tweak cable mount on the Campag rear mech to allow reliable indexing on 9/10 Shimano cassette spacing, even after "cable stretch"?

[Brucey]

to tweak a campag 10s rear mech for shimano 10s spacing it is question of moving the cable attachment very slightly 'outwards' (vs the sideplate pivot) thus decreasing the shift ratio of the rear mech slightly. This is a bit like a hubbub but much smaller (usually less than 1mm), and it may work OK without it.

To adapt to shimano 9s spacing the cable attachment needs to be moved the other way by about 5% of the distance to the pivot.

Both tweaks can be carried out using a tabbed washer of the right kind.

cheers

[recordacefromnew]

To adapt to shimano 9s spacing the cable attachment needs to be moved the other way by about 5% of the distance to the pivot.

Moving the right amount, especially the other way, is often not possible without some surgery/modification, isn't it?

I am referring to scenario 2 and 3 at the bottom of the page here http://www.highpath.net/highpath/cycles/info/rear.html.