mixte refurb
mixte refurb
Current project is refurbing a Bob jackson mixte frame, (more used to vintage trikes).
Appears to date from 1982 according to the date code on the Huret Eco derailleur.
The steel rims on the original 27 inch wheels are shot, I could get alloy rims & re-rim the wheels.
Front OLN is 96 so I could squeeze in a new 700c wheel with 100 OLN.
Rear is 126 OLN but the mixte frame may be difficult to spread to 130.
Frame has not been refinished yet so still chance to add vee bosses for 700c.
Any thoughts?
Appears to date from 1982 according to the date code on the Huret Eco derailleur.
The steel rims on the original 27 inch wheels are shot, I could get alloy rims & re-rim the wheels.
Front OLN is 96 so I could squeeze in a new 700c wheel with 100 OLN.
Rear is 126 OLN but the mixte frame may be difficult to spread to 130.
Frame has not been refinished yet so still chance to add vee bosses for 700c.
Any thoughts?
Re: mixte refurb
I have a Mixte frame that was originally 126mm rear 5sp derailleur, and it is now a Shimano Nexus 8sp hub gear at 130mm.
I spread the back end thus:
Lie the bare frame on the livingroom carpet. Make sure the frame is clean!
Stand on one rear dropout with one foot on the dropout, the other on the chainstay area.
Tug hard with both hands on the other dropout and feel it "give" a tiny bit.
Turn the frame over, and repeat.
Measure the width and use a piece of string to measure any bias that might be present.
Repeat the tugging to correct any bias, and pull more width as required.
Do all this slowly and gently.
I had no problem and it only took a few minutes.
I spread the back end thus:
Lie the bare frame on the livingroom carpet. Make sure the frame is clean!
Stand on one rear dropout with one foot on the dropout, the other on the chainstay area.
Tug hard with both hands on the other dropout and feel it "give" a tiny bit.
Turn the frame over, and repeat.
Measure the width and use a piece of string to measure any bias that might be present.
Repeat the tugging to correct any bias, and pull more width as required.
Do all this slowly and gently.
I had no problem and it only took a few minutes.
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: mixte refurb
I used exactly the same method as MickF to spread the rear triangle on my Raleigh Royale mixte from 126mm to 130mm. Very straightforward.
Re: mixte refurb
Thanks both, I do prefer to use newer hubs if it is possible to spread the mixte frame.
Going down the route of 700c wheels, & good brakes.
Going down the route of 700c wheels, & good brakes.
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: 8 Feb 2013, 12:04pm
Re: mixte refurb
If you do want to stay at 126 OLN, DCR wheels in Lewes, East Sussex have a selection of vintage NOS. XT, Durace hubs. All boxed up. Not too pricey either
I think there was a post earlier in the month about spreading a 753 frame to 130 OLN. A big no no.
The XT set I bought came with an ultra glide freehub but was easily swapped out for a hyperglide.
I was nervous about spreading a 531 Nigel Dean touring mixte so stuck at 126.
Just a thought for you
I think there was a post earlier in the month about spreading a 753 frame to 130 OLN. A big no no.
The XT set I bought came with an ultra glide freehub but was easily swapped out for a hyperglide.
I was nervous about spreading a 531 Nigel Dean touring mixte so stuck at 126.
Just a thought for you
Re: mixte refurb
Now the frame is stripped of all parts I can see the lovely lugwork. The forks are marked Haden Bros & 878.
878 is repeated on the rear dropouts, & the bottom bracket cable guides are Haden. These are pinned in.
The BB has 308.
Although resprayed & badged as Bob Jackson, it is not in their numbering.
Did Haden make complete bikes or just sell lugs to other frame makers?
878 is repeated on the rear dropouts, & the bottom bracket cable guides are Haden. These are pinned in.
The BB has 308.
Although resprayed & badged as Bob Jackson, it is not in their numbering.
Did Haden make complete bikes or just sell lugs to other frame makers?
Re: mixte refurb
Hi, interesting project , now check this one a mate has completed http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... 3&t=248610
i wouldn't suggest doing your rear dropout adjustments by such a uncontrollable method.. as you may find that some will move more than you need and others won't budge.. i cut a piece of timber and groove the ends to match the chainstays and drift it in down the stays until i can just about get a prepared bare axle or hub which is the size needed , try it..then a bit more drifting because it will always spring back until you have the exact or nearly exact clearance required when everything is removed, it may take some time but it is more controllable then hoiking on the stays with a foot and your upper body strength that's a great way to separate chainstays or seatstay bridges from their brasing.. will
i wouldn't suggest doing your rear dropout adjustments by such a uncontrollable method.. as you may find that some will move more than you need and others won't budge.. i cut a piece of timber and groove the ends to match the chainstays and drift it in down the stays until i can just about get a prepared bare axle or hub which is the size needed , try it..then a bit more drifting because it will always spring back until you have the exact or nearly exact clearance required when everything is removed, it may take some time but it is more controllable then hoiking on the stays with a foot and your upper body strength that's a great way to separate chainstays or seatstay bridges from their brasing.. will
Re: mixte refurb
If you want control over spreading the back end, you need to bend one side at a time.
You can do this with a long lever with the BB held in a big vice, or Sheldon Brown's way on his website.
when you have finished, the dropouts need to be parallel, too.
You can do this with a long lever with the BB held in a big vice, or Sheldon Brown's way on his website.
when you have finished, the dropouts need to be parallel, too.
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Re: mixte refurb
How far out of parallel would the dropouts be when they move from 126mm to 130mm?
When I did mine, I never even bothered with checking. I never checked them before I moved them, so I have no idea if they were originally correct.
Also, when I did mine, I moved one side at a time. By standing on the chainstay with the frame lying on its side, you can pull up the other one. One foot by the chainstay bridge, the other on the dropout, then pull up on the other dropout. I agree that this could move both chainstays, but the main movement is on the one you pull ............ or that's the way I found it.
When I did mine, I never even bothered with checking. I never checked them before I moved them, so I have no idea if they were originally correct.
Also, when I did mine, I moved one side at a time. By standing on the chainstay with the frame lying on its side, you can pull up the other one. One foot by the chainstay bridge, the other on the dropout, then pull up on the other dropout. I agree that this could move both chainstays, but the main movement is on the one you pull ............ or that's the way I found it.
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: mixte refurb
Spreading the back end a few mm won't put much of an angle on the dropouts, agreed.
Also, with Mick's method, if you stand on the bottom chainstay right by the bridge, and pull up on the other dropout, I agree its the top side that will bend.
I would bend first one side to give half the increase in dropout width, then turn over and repeat.
Of course, you can check a frame for straightness with a piece of string....http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=59332&hilit=+string
Also, with Mick's method, if you stand on the bottom chainstay right by the bridge, and pull up on the other dropout, I agree its the top side that will bend.
I would bend first one side to give half the increase in dropout width, then turn over and repeat.
Of course, you can check a frame for straightness with a piece of string....http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=59332&hilit=+string
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Re: mixte refurb
Thanks for the link, Colin. I hope my mixte refurb doesn't run to a saga of icelandic proportions to tell around the fire during the long northern winters....
The bottom bracket is a Sugino of late 1981. The vendor said the frame was her mothers & resprayed as her first adult bike about then.
Frame number is only three digits. The rear dropouts are stamped L+SE amd LE EX. The BB has (R( stamped on the top.
I will go easy with respacing. I still have the 27 wheels to play with.
The bottom bracket is a Sugino of late 1981. The vendor said the frame was her mothers & resprayed as her first adult bike about then.
Frame number is only three digits. The rear dropouts are stamped L+SE amd LE EX. The BB has (R( stamped on the top.
I will go easy with respacing. I still have the 27 wheels to play with.