Moving the wheel in the dropouts

[samsbike]

My bike has these screws in the back of the dropouts. I dont really use them but fancy moving my wheels back a little to see if I can get some clearance for mudguards. Am I correct in that I just screw them back and push the wheel back?

Does it really make any difference to how far back they go?

thanks

[Brucey]

yes just unscrew them (if you can, they often seize up). They are only there to help locate the wheel when you are doing a racing wheel change.

cheers

[samsbike]

yes just unscrew them (if you can, they often seize up). They are only there to help locate the wheel when you are doing a racing wheel change.

cheers

thanks they seem to move but not a lot as there is spring there somewhere which acts as a stop. Am I correct I can just remove them if need be?

[531colin]

The "knob" outside the dropout just screws onto the screw....there should be a screwdriver slot (in the bit in the dropout) to let you undo the knob.....then you can put the spring on the outside, or just remove them altogether......when you will lose them!......

[samsbike]

The "knob" outside the dropout just screws onto the screw....there should be a screwdriver slot (in the bit in the dropout) to let you undo the knob.....then you can put the spring on the outside, or just remove them altogether......when you will lose them!......

Ok thanks, I just wanted the space to run mudguards.

[samsbike]

The "knob" outside the dropout just screws onto the screw....there should be a screwdriver slot (in the bit in the dropout) to let you undo the knob.....then you can put the spring on the outside, or just remove them altogether......when you will lose them!......

Ok thanks, I just wanted the space to run mudguards.

I tried holding the knob with pliers but it didnt work. Should I try one of those lockable wrenches?

[Brucey]

if you are failing when using pliers then you are a gnat's away from shearing the screws off. I bet they are rusted into the frame.

There are three methods for recovering this situation;

1) shear the screws off and drill them out, then retap. Lengthy and difficult.

2) Use a blowtorch on the whole rear dropout, then penetrating oil. Repeat as necessary. -Will probably work but you will need to refinish that part of the frame.

3) Use a micro-blowtorch on the screw, then penetrating oil. Repeat as necessary.

I prefer option 3; you can avoid having to refinish the frame this way. I have been successful this way on many occasions which has 'saved' some frames that would otherwise have suffered some ghastly fate or other.

When trying to free the screw off the best way of doing it is to get a tool on both ends of the adjuster at the same time. It is very easy to break the adjusters; I can shear them off using just a screwdriver (ask me how I know... ).

cheers

[samsbike]

Cheers Brucey will try some penetrating oil first.

Thanks

[Brucey]

IME the penetrating oil probably won't be enough by itself; hence the micro-blowtorch approach.

The thing to remember is that (by weight) 'rust' can be mostly water. If you heat the rust up the bond may be disrupted anyway, but the rust will also dry out, which makes it lose its grip on the surfaces. Heating then dousing in oil actually sucks the oil into the joint as it cools. If you see bubbles coming out when the joint is next heated, you know you are doing some good; this is steam escaping, and the vacated space can be occupied by oil, gradually breaking down the bonds of corrosion. After several heat-oil-cool-heat again cycles the screws will usually come free.

cheers

[breakwellmz]

You can use a cooker gas ring if you have no blow torch to heat up the screws,you should be able to heat it up enough and save the frame paintwork from damage.

[samsbike]

Thanks all worked great with wd40!