Thinking about spiked tyres, but they come in widths from 30 to 42mm and some have option of 120 or 240 spikes. Any suggestions as to what I need for winter commuting? I'm just thinking of a set I can put on and whizz down the hills in all wintry conditions. Are more spikes always desirable? Do I need greater width to ride over snow?
These would be on a spare set of wheels and would be removed when snow and ice (i.e conditions like now) are not present or temperatures are not negative in the morning.
Which Spiked Tyre?
Re: Which Spiked Tyre?
spiked tyres are actually designed to work in various different ways, depending on what kind of surface you expect to ride on, and how quickly you are prepared to accept damage to the tyre when you are not riding on that surface.
there is quite a good write-up on Peter White's website here;
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp
cheers
there is quite a good write-up on Peter White's website here;
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Which Spiked Tyre?
I have conti spike claw 120 on 26 inch rims. The difference between them and the 240 is that the studs on the 120 are only on the outer edge, therefore only effective when turning or if traction is lost. The 240 is presumably more useful where snow and ice is more severe and/or more frequent, whereas the 120 is better for normal conditions as the centre of the tyre is unencumered by metal studs.
Limited experience with them but very impressed so far. They grip really well and when traction is lost it is reasonably predictable and the side studs seem to dig in and keep you upright.
Limited experience with them but very impressed so far. They grip really well and when traction is lost it is reasonably predictable and the side studs seem to dig in and keep you upright.
Re: Which Spiked Tyre?
If it's really icy, you may not be able to whizz down the hills. I use conti Nordic spikes (240 studs), and whilst they keep me upright and on my bike in conditions that I can't walk in, it is easy to get going too fast going down an icy hill. On shear ice, the spikes seem to loose their effectiveness around 10 or 12 mph, and are only slightly better than normal tyres.
The other condition in which they are not completely effective is a layer of snow on top of ice. If the snow is thick enough, the studs grip the snow, which then slides on the ice. It is still possible to ride with care, and it's somewhat better than riding with normal tyres.
They're good in snow, though it gets to be hard going when there is more an inch or so. In two inches of snow, I figure about double the time of clear roads and slicks.
That said, the nordic spikes are amazing in most conditions, and the only reason I can still ride my bike safely in the winter, so they are well worth the investment, IMO.
The other condition in which they are not completely effective is a layer of snow on top of ice. If the snow is thick enough, the studs grip the snow, which then slides on the ice. It is still possible to ride with care, and it's somewhat better than riding with normal tyres.
They're good in snow, though it gets to be hard going when there is more an inch or so. In two inches of snow, I figure about double the time of clear roads and slicks.
That said, the nordic spikes are amazing in most conditions, and the only reason I can still ride my bike safely in the winter, so they are well worth the investment, IMO.
“In some ways, it is easier to be a dissident, for then one is without responsibility.”
― Nelson Mandela, Long Walk to Freedom
― Nelson Mandela, Long Walk to Freedom
Re: Which Spiked Tyre?
whilst echoing the above comments the best things about fitting spiked tyres are the incredulous looks from pedestrians as you trundle by through the snow and the comments from non-cycling folk on arrival at your destination of "WHAT ON EARTH ARE THEY!!!"
Re: Which Spiked Tyre?
Vorpal wrote:If it's really icy, you may not be able to whizz down the hills. I use conti Nordic spikes (240 studs), and whilst they keep me upright and on my bike in conditions that I can't walk in, it is easy to get going too fast going down an icy hill. On shear ice, the spikes seem to loose their effectiveness around 10 or 12 mph, and are only slightly better than normal tyres.
The other condition in which they are not completely effective is a layer of snow on top of ice. If the snow is thick enough, the studs grip the snow, which then slides on the ice. It is still possible to ride with care, and it's somewhat better than riding with normal tyres.
They're good in snow, though it gets to be hard going when there is more an inch or so. In two inches of snow, I figure about double the time of clear roads and slicks.
That said, the nordic spikes are amazing in most conditions, and the only reason I can still ride my bike safely in the winter, so they are well worth the investment, IMO.
I agree, making the tyre bite through the top layer of snow and force the spikes into the ice below is difficult and at my wet through weight of 62kg even more so. I use 700c Nokian A10 and W240 studded tyres. The A10 is a good general run about it has a suitable tread and a sprinkling of spikes for snowy conditions on track and long mileages on tarmac, for undurlying ice it lacks sufficient spikes. The all singing all dancing W240 is a bit of a beast and the studs are not friendly to wandering knuckles, I have found it to be the best all rounder and is suitable for all terrains hard or soft, it makes quite a noise on clear tarmac but it saves ringing the bell. However the W240 is a big tyre and I can only just fit it into the rear triangle of my touring bike. Again I endorse above, spiked tyres are fine for snow but if you cannot force the spikes through the snow to dig into the ice below you can easily be caught off guard and skid.
Last edited by petzl on 19 Jan 2013, 4:34pm, edited 1 time in total.