I have a requirement for replacement cones for a circa 1992 vintage Campagnolo C Record Rear Hub, screw on freewheel design.
Having searched the internet, I've been unable to find a Campagnolo parts catalogue showing the part number of the cones required and also a source for these parts.
I've attempted to contact Campyoldy, unfortunately the proprietor has been rushed to hospital, really wish him a full and speedy recovery.
Can anyone help with the identification and / or a source for these parts?
Many thanks in advance.
Campagnolo C Record Hub Cone Part Number
Re: Campagnolo C Record Hub Cone Part Number
You try emailing Eric Norris on Campyonly.
http://campyonly.com/
Eric Norris enorris@campyonly.com
Other than that, try asking Mercian Cycles.
http://www.merciancycles.co.uk/contact-us
I don't know, but I would guess that the C Record hubs were the same internally as the Record. If so, the cups and cones are readily available from Mercian.
http://campyonly.com/
Eric Norris enorris@campyonly.com
Other than that, try asking Mercian Cycles.
http://www.merciancycles.co.uk/contact-us
I don't know, but I would guess that the C Record hubs were the same internally as the Record. If so, the cups and cones are readily available from Mercian.
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Campagnolo C Record Hub Cone Part Number
IIRC the C-record cone is different from almost every other campy cone. I remember when the stuff came out. I took an instant dislike to it; they had made few worthwhile functional improvements that I could see, yet had redesigned almost every part, in many cases for the worse in terms of reliability. I would have been a bit grumpy if they had just tarted up SR, but at least that would have left a few more interchangeable spare parts.
Before C-record and its minnows we had just two styles of cone for every Campy hub made in the last 20 years or more; tipo or record. After.... it was nuts. The guys in the LBS got confused and they had received the parts in labelled bags... We had all the old stuff plus Triomph, Victory and C-R. There were few parts that interchanged. Some would 'work' in other hubs but required new spacers in the axle. Others looked as if they would work but actually ground themselves to atoms in a short period if you tried. Once the parts were out of the bag, you needed to be very careful to not get them mixed up as there were no real distinguishing marks. A couple of years later they changed a load of parts and introduced yet further gruppos with further new parts....mental....and pointless, too....
To tell if your cones (old or new) are going to work, here's what to do; degrease everything. Using a black marker pen (a sharpie or similar), coat the cup and cone black on the running surfaces. Wait a couple of minutes for the pen marks to dry off. Next, reassemble the hub with genuine Campy (used Campy is Ok if they are not pitted) or new grade A or better (best available tolerance, not cheapo header card ones from the LBS) balls loose and no lube at all (this can be fiddly..). Dont bother with the locknuts. Now just nip the cones up using slight finger pressure and spin the hub. A good hub will run freely with clearance taken up fully and the cones under slight pressure. Further pressure through tightening of the cones using fingers only will slow the hub but it won't make any really foul noises and the running friction will increase but be more or less consistent. The noise you should hear if all is well (on a bare hub, not a built up wheel) is a bit like the sound you get if you roll a single ball bearing around in the bottom of a tin can. If the angles are all wrong the hub may seize instantly or have very variable friction as you finger tighten the cones. It will probably make a variety of exciting squealing and/or crunching sounds too. Try not to turn the hub with the bearings too loose during this test. To be 100% sure of the result, now take the hub apart and look at the bearings.
Good things to see are; a narrow (~0.5 wide) line worn through the black on both cup and cone, and the tangent angle to the mark on both the cup and cone profile should be the same. The contact (or thrust) line, which is at 90 degrees to the tangent, can be anywhere from 45 degrees to about 60 degrees from the axle centreline depending on the hub design. Campy rears are usually nearer the 60 degree angle.
Bad things to see are bad angles and/or a wide line (~1.0mm or more) in the black marking. Usually both go hand in hand. The wide line means the balls have been scuffing and this is fatal to the hub. It doesn't matter how good it feels when the grease is in, if it is no good dry, as per this test, it'll wear like blazes later, grease or not.
Top end Campy cones are through- (or at least deeply) hardened. This means you have a fighting chance of regrinding the profile. I've done this.. with difficulty... it is no more likely to come out right than taking random cones and trying them if you don't know what you are doing or you are taking off a lot of material. But if the damage or wear is slight, instead of regrinding you can spin them up in an electric drill (use a broken axle for an arbor... you'll have a few of those no doubt...) and use (say) 600 grit paper and then polish them with autosol. Sometimes a bad cone can come good this way, and it is unlikely that you will make things much worse by trying this.
hth
cheers
Before C-record and its minnows we had just two styles of cone for every Campy hub made in the last 20 years or more; tipo or record. After.... it was nuts. The guys in the LBS got confused and they had received the parts in labelled bags... We had all the old stuff plus Triomph, Victory and C-R. There were few parts that interchanged. Some would 'work' in other hubs but required new spacers in the axle. Others looked as if they would work but actually ground themselves to atoms in a short period if you tried. Once the parts were out of the bag, you needed to be very careful to not get them mixed up as there were no real distinguishing marks. A couple of years later they changed a load of parts and introduced yet further gruppos with further new parts....mental....and pointless, too....
To tell if your cones (old or new) are going to work, here's what to do; degrease everything. Using a black marker pen (a sharpie or similar), coat the cup and cone black on the running surfaces. Wait a couple of minutes for the pen marks to dry off. Next, reassemble the hub with genuine Campy (used Campy is Ok if they are not pitted) or new grade A or better (best available tolerance, not cheapo header card ones from the LBS) balls loose and no lube at all (this can be fiddly..). Dont bother with the locknuts. Now just nip the cones up using slight finger pressure and spin the hub. A good hub will run freely with clearance taken up fully and the cones under slight pressure. Further pressure through tightening of the cones using fingers only will slow the hub but it won't make any really foul noises and the running friction will increase but be more or less consistent. The noise you should hear if all is well (on a bare hub, not a built up wheel) is a bit like the sound you get if you roll a single ball bearing around in the bottom of a tin can. If the angles are all wrong the hub may seize instantly or have very variable friction as you finger tighten the cones. It will probably make a variety of exciting squealing and/or crunching sounds too. Try not to turn the hub with the bearings too loose during this test. To be 100% sure of the result, now take the hub apart and look at the bearings.
Good things to see are; a narrow (~0.5 wide) line worn through the black on both cup and cone, and the tangent angle to the mark on both the cup and cone profile should be the same. The contact (or thrust) line, which is at 90 degrees to the tangent, can be anywhere from 45 degrees to about 60 degrees from the axle centreline depending on the hub design. Campy rears are usually nearer the 60 degree angle.
Bad things to see are bad angles and/or a wide line (~1.0mm or more) in the black marking. Usually both go hand in hand. The wide line means the balls have been scuffing and this is fatal to the hub. It doesn't matter how good it feels when the grease is in, if it is no good dry, as per this test, it'll wear like blazes later, grease or not.
Top end Campy cones are through- (or at least deeply) hardened. This means you have a fighting chance of regrinding the profile. I've done this.. with difficulty... it is no more likely to come out right than taking random cones and trying them if you don't know what you are doing or you are taking off a lot of material. But if the damage or wear is slight, instead of regrinding you can spin them up in an electric drill (use a broken axle for an arbor... you'll have a few of those no doubt...) and use (say) 600 grit paper and then polish them with autosol. Sometimes a bad cone can come good this way, and it is unlikely that you will make things much worse by trying this.
hth
cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Campagnolo C Record Hub Cone Part Number
Excellent bit of info!
Thank you Brucey.
I was mistaken, I thought C Record hubs could have been the same as Record. Pity.
Thank you Brucey.
I was mistaken, I thought C Record hubs could have been the same as Record. Pity.
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Campagnolo C Record Hub Cone Part Number
Are "wheels manufacturing" any good for Campag. pattern cones?
I thought they did them, but all I can turn up is their bewildering array of Shimano pattern cones & axles.
Its good stuff, comes in a nice box with lots of compartments.
I thought they did them, but all I can turn up is their bewildering array of Shimano pattern cones & axles.
Its good stuff, comes in a nice box with lots of compartments.
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/