"PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

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breakwellmz
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by breakwellmz »

The last one looks to use a bit of Colchester lathe coolant pipe :lol:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/at ... 61-800.jpg
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gaz
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by gaz »

I've spent a bit of time reading through this thread over the last week or so and decided it was time to turn my hands to a bit of shedgeneering.

As I've got bar-end shifters the logical starting point seemed to be mounting some ends of bars in-board of the handlebars. This thread is full of ideas that helped me achieve that.
HPIM0188.JPG


HPIM0187.JPG


HPIM0185a.jpg


HPIM0184.JPG


As prototypes go it was reasonably succesful. The tube holding the shifter is approx 22.2mm diameter, 1mm wall thickness. The scalloped tube between the shifter and the bars is approx 25.4mm diameter, 0.5mm wall thickness.

The current problem is that the scallops are deforming as I shift gear, presumably because of the thin tube wall. I think I need to try a section of the 22.2mm tubing, I'll give it a go tomorrow. The other problem is the cable run. At the moment it is still the original length so I can put things back for the commute if I'm unsuccesful. It looks like some kind of twisted snake, it will need to be shortened into a graceful curve

My tool kit for the task was somewhat limited.
HPIM0186.JPG

There's nothing exotic in there so the results should be achievable by all DIYers.
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Brucey
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by Brucey »

I would imagine that the 1mm wall thickness tube will be crushed sideways if you ever get the screw tight enough to stop everything from moving around. A simple method of reinforcing the 1mm wall tube would be to make a cross-drilled wooden plug to go up the inside where the bolt passes through it.

cheers
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531colin
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by 531colin »

Gaz...
I think you are putting a bit more torque on the shifter mounts than I am, simply because your levers are further away from the fixing.
This is the tube I use....http://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/Aluminium-Round_Tube/c120_131/p17960/Aluminium_Round_Tube_(6082T6)_1_in_x_14_swg/product_info.html.......its 25.4mm x 2mm approx. ali tube.....I only have scallops at the handlebar end of the tube, and I make the scallops a smaller diameter than the bars (20mm scallops) so that there is actually only 2 point contact between the bars and the tube of the shifter mount....I think that's preferable to trying to make an exact fit and failing!
(swg to mm conversion....http://www.npfasteners.com/pdfs/material-thickness-chart.pdf
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breakwellmz
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by breakwellmz »

I combined very similar tubing(7/8")with a section of this tubing(A piece of crutch upright)to make something similar.The`square section is very strong and secure to the handlebar :D
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Garden 001 (Small).jpg
Garden 002 (Small).jpg
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gaz
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by gaz »

gaz wrote:The current problem is that the scallops are deforming as I shift gear, presumably because of the thin tube wall. I think I need to try a section of the 22.2mm tubing, I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Well the 22.2mm tubing is much harder to work. It's probably 1.5 - 2mm thick. My vernier gauge isn't accurate, I tend to use it to establish parts are the same size rather than to determine what size they are. In any case I gave up trying to shape the scallops.

531colin wrote:I think you are putting a bit more torque on the shifter mounts than I am, simply because your levers are further away from the fixing.

I'm sure you are right, back to the drawing board. It will make a nice project for the cold months ahead.
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gaz
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by gaz »

531colin wrote:BTW, the extrusion did exist, at one time....who remembers Cinelli Spinaci ......(maybe not me....those extra bits of bar the UCI used to allow)


I decided that this might be a way forward so I found some on ebay a week or so back :) . Then I went back to the thread and found this remark :( .

reohn2 wrote:I've got some Spinache's,I'll go and check ... they'll fit the h/bars fine but b/ends don't fit the Spinache bar internal diameter(which is smaller than h/bar tube).It would need some very thin wall tubing to get the b/ends to fit the Spinache brackets.


The thing is you don't even need a bar, the bar-end fitting can simply expand into the Spinaci clamp :D .
DSCN0355.JPG

DSCN0356.JPG

I've since added a sleeve around the expander cut from some thin walled alloy tube, akin to a seat post shim.

Round the block tests were successful. I'll try it out properly on next week's commute.

28/7 Edit: Commute Day 1. It rained, probably unconnected to the new shifter position but you never know :wink: . Shifts fine, easily accessible from the hoods, tops and bends. There are a few relaxed hand positions where my thumb rubs the lever slightly so some fine tuning may be required. My biggest issue was a tendency to reach to the bar-end to shift gear and find that the lever wasn't there :roll: .

29/7 Edit: Commute Day 2. No rain, otherwise much the same as yesterday. It's not a thing of beauty, could it be a joy forever?

8/9 Edit: Continued use shows this to be a definite all round success for me. Ordered two more sets via Graham's Planet X link.

10/9 Edit: Spinaci's have arrived. One set is for 25.4 (despite Planet X stating 26.0), the other is unmarked and my vernier gauge isn't up to precision so it could be either. In any case both should be fit for purpose.

13/9 Edit: The 25.4 are fine and are now on the tourer with Suntour Accushift barcons. The Suntours fit the Spinaci tube so I've used a cut down section as a sleeve. The rubber lever hoods on the Suntours are chunkier than their Shimano equivalent, leaving less thumb room.

18/12 Edit: Everything continues to work to my complete satisfaction :D , I must get round to fitting them on the tandem. It may be worth a mention that the Spinaci brackets interfere with riding on the drops, no problem for me.
Last edited by gaz on 18 Dec 2014, 6:49pm, edited 6 times in total.
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reohn2
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by reohn2 »

Gaz
doh! why didn't I realise that,it's not as if it's obvious or anyfink :?
They'll work well I would think but I'd only give them 6 out of 10 for looks though but I'm being picky,for a DIY job they're excellent :D You can also check this out :- http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/HBSPEUROB/ ... -extension
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gaz
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by gaz »

Thanks for that link, if everything works well I'll probably adapt the tourer, maybe the tandem too.

Edits: AFAICT R2's link is to a set for 22.2mm diameter bars, Graham's link below looks like a set for 26.0mm.

Edit2: Mine are sorted now but just discovered Tiramisu.
Last edited by gaz on 14 Oct 2014, 8:21pm, edited 3 times in total.
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fastpedaller
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by fastpedaller »

Years ago I made up similar......... my local framebuilder supplied the frame boss, which he silver soldered onto a jubillee clip. This was mounted just beneath the brake lever. I tapped the RH alloy brake lever housing on the LHS and screwed on a Weinmann brake cable outler mount, and the outer then went from there to similar outer cable holder on the usual downtube boss (we have dedicated ones now of course). Using a FRONT Campag friction lever on the RHS, gave me a lever which I could use from the hooks, or (with a little bit of difficulty) with hands on the top of the hoods, to operate the REAR derailleur. I used this arrangement specifically for a hillclimb course, where it enable me to change whilst going uphill (didn'r help though, 'cos I wasn't fit enough!). Wouldn't work with indexed? or could it if the component parts were switched?

It may be possible just to buy a few bosses from Ceeway?
fastpedaller
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by fastpedaller »

Haven't seen any new posts for a while on this one so...... I've seen (and somewhat admire) the retroshift idea - but note the inability to operate from the drops. Here's a new twist; what about mounting the lever in the same orientation to the retroshifts but on the bar, behind the brake lever so it can be reached from drops or hoods? Should be clear of the brake lever (which would only get close to the bar if the cable was very slack anyway)
fastpedaller
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by fastpedaller »

Something like this idea (please excuse rough diagram, but I didn't know how to move the lever in the image. This idea might need very long fingers though. Anyway, it's another idea
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retroshiftindexedthumbs.jpg
reohn2
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by reohn2 »

It's still a very compromised position both for gear change operation as it would limit brake hood grip,would be a bit of a stretch to use from the hoods,and unreachable from the tops,it would also compromise braking if the brakes needed adjusting.
A non starter IMO
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fastpedaller
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by fastpedaller »

I think I need some Suntour Command's then - They seem the best of all . 531 Colin's settup is great, with the addition of an extra lever it could be operated from the drops like Commands - Maybe someone with TIG welding skills could weld another lever onto the first? I guess they could be machined from solid but not a DIY job ( I agree the TIG welding isn't either, but at least a smaller job.
reohn2
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints

Post by reohn2 »

fastpedaller wrote:I think I need some Suntour Command's then - They seem the best of all . 531 Colin's settup is great, with the addition of an extra lever it could be operated from the drops like Commands - Maybe someone with TIG welding skills could weld another lever onto the first? I guess they could be machined from solid but not a DIY job ( I agree the TIG welding isn't either, but at least a smaller job.


TBH Colin's set up and Kelly's are perfectly placed for use from tops,hoods and drops without the need for a second lever Suntour Command style,they work very well with fingers or thumbs.
People with quite small hands may find them a bit more of a stretch from the drops but from all other positions no problem.
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