"PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
Here's another idea:-
A pair of old narrow bars cut back to juusstt behind the hoods leaving one bend,then fitted to the handlebar with Spinache brackets and barend levers in the ends of the cut offs.
Adjustment for lever position could be made via the Spinaches
The cut off 'bars could be made narrower by removing a centre section and joining with wooden dowel or suitable diameter tube if needed,to get the correct width.
The cut down/off handlebar could also take a barbag or lighting brackets and computer,etc leaving the handlebars uncluttered.
I'm busy for the next day or two but when I get a bit of free time I'll mock one up.
A pair of old narrow bars cut back to juusstt behind the hoods leaving one bend,then fitted to the handlebar with Spinache brackets and barend levers in the ends of the cut offs.
Adjustment for lever position could be made via the Spinaches
The cut off 'bars could be made narrower by removing a centre section and joining with wooden dowel or suitable diameter tube if needed,to get the correct width.
The cut down/off handlebar could also take a barbag or lighting brackets and computer,etc leaving the handlebars uncluttered.
I'm busy for the next day or two but when I get a bit of free time I'll mock one up.
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"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
If you're putting a bar bag on it then that central join had better be pretty good (much less risk that on actual bars of course)
A shortcut has to be a challenge, otherwise it would just be the way. No situation is so dire that panic cannot make it worse.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
[XAP]Bob wrote:If you're putting a bar bag on it then that central join had better be pretty good (much less risk that on actual bars of course)
If the wooden dowel/alu tube spigot extended past the Spinache clamps it'd be pretty strong I reckon,certainly strong enough to hang a barbag and gearlevers on.
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"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
carrying on from R2's idea (which is great IMO) of using old h/bars, I wonder if leaving them a little longer past the curve and flipping them so that they're curving up the way, like bullhorns, would work. You would probably have to point them down the way so that end point lined up with being near brakes.
I can't visualise it at present but will be near my shed shortly. I'm thinking that this would allow the same horizontal bar space for other stuff and could allow more positions /angles near the brake levers. Hmm.........
I can't visualise it at present but will be near my shed shortly. I'm thinking that this would allow the same horizontal bar space for other stuff and could allow more positions /angles near the brake levers. Hmm.........
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
reohn2 wrote:Here's another idea:-
A pair of old narrow bars cut back to juusstt behind the hoods leaving one bend,then fitted to the handlebar with Spinache brackets and barend levers in the ends of the cut offs....
You'll need a very narrow diameter drop bar to fit in the Spinaci end of the Spinaci clamp and those same bars will have to be made from a very, very thin walled tube to accept the barcons.
Good luck finding something that meets both those criteria .
High on a cocktail of flossy teacakes and marmalade
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
As this thread doesn't seem to know its dead, and it won't lie down, I thought I might as well update it.....
My plan to copy the Kelly take-off idea got more and more complex and difficult to manufacture, requiring turned parts, laser-cut tube, and water-jet cut plate, to name but a few. I could make a non-adjustable version in my shed (anything past prototype 6, page eight), but to make a commercial version was getting expensive.
I had been working all this time with my collection of 7&8 speed D/T levers, and 8&9 speed B/E levers. I was just getting to a commercial prototype when I looked closely at Shimano 9 speed D/T levers. Bless them, Shimano have changed the pattern, the cable run is different, and the left lever has gone back to the old-fashioned friction-setting butterfly nut, so 9 speed D/T levers need a different design. This makes the thing a nonsense commercially.....you can't fund 2 different types of mount, and 9 speed B/E levers are too expensive anyway to tempt people away from STIs. (I'm working on the principle that my set-up needs to be cheaper than STIs, as well as offering better braking, more choice of gears, and similar convenience.)
But Shimano's "progress" is relentless....I heard a rumour that Deore is going 10 speed next.....
So the battle is lost, but the war goes on.
I'm currently working on a mount for SunRace 9 speed thumbies, there is a hand-made prototype at Spa to be built into a test bike.
If anybody wants to DIY some Shimano mounts, PM me an E mail address and I can E mail you drawings I made of the tubular part of my mount....I didn't make any drawings of the plate with the 12mm square pinned to it, I just made them!
(I don't know how to attach a file to a post.......)
Moral....there is a work-around!
My plan to copy the Kelly take-off idea got more and more complex and difficult to manufacture, requiring turned parts, laser-cut tube, and water-jet cut plate, to name but a few. I could make a non-adjustable version in my shed (anything past prototype 6, page eight), but to make a commercial version was getting expensive.
I had been working all this time with my collection of 7&8 speed D/T levers, and 8&9 speed B/E levers. I was just getting to a commercial prototype when I looked closely at Shimano 9 speed D/T levers. Bless them, Shimano have changed the pattern, the cable run is different, and the left lever has gone back to the old-fashioned friction-setting butterfly nut, so 9 speed D/T levers need a different design. This makes the thing a nonsense commercially.....you can't fund 2 different types of mount, and 9 speed B/E levers are too expensive anyway to tempt people away from STIs. (I'm working on the principle that my set-up needs to be cheaper than STIs, as well as offering better braking, more choice of gears, and similar convenience.)
But Shimano's "progress" is relentless....I heard a rumour that Deore is going 10 speed next.....
So the battle is lost, but the war goes on.
I'm currently working on a mount for SunRace 9 speed thumbies, there is a hand-made prototype at Spa to be built into a test bike.
If anybody wants to DIY some Shimano mounts, PM me an E mail address and I can E mail you drawings I made of the tubular part of my mount....I didn't make any drawings of the plate with the 12mm square pinned to it, I just made them!
(I don't know how to attach a file to a post.......)
Moral....there is a work-around!
Last edited by 531colin on 12 Sep 2014, 6:55pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
Forgive me if this option has already been suggested..... What about some simple thumb shifters which are available for less than a fiver each. They all appear to be for 22.2 bars, but have simple steel clamps which should easily 'give' to 23.8mm ok it's 1.6mm on the diameter, so should need the clamping screw 5mm longer. An easy solution to our quest? or are the levers too short? Could just use the mounts and a longer lever?
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
...see page 4, 6, 8, 11, 12,13,
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
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- Joined: 10 Jul 2014, 1:12pm
- Location: Norfolk
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
Hmm, look what I just found. Looks like they've bought (or copied) Paul.
http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b37 ... tAodtW0ASg
Not for skinflints though!
http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b37 ... tAodtW0ASg
Not for skinflints though!
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- Location: Norfolk
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
Can't let this thread die yet Colin!
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
I quite like your aluminium bracket; I think it might have worked OK if you had put a joggle in the main bracket and then made the cantilever loading onto the (now shorter) cable stop tab a fair bit less.
cheers
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
Yes indeed - the bending moment is too high. I think your idea plus 3mm ali might just do it. The Tiramisus work well, except for using the drops.... I can change gear ok, but the tiramisus stop my hands going to a comfortable position. I think a deeper bar may be better in this respect (the bars are 'compact'). I may experiment some more (maybe use some stainless plate?)
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
I'm surprised to see that you are using a noodle, I've had no trouble with running the outer directly to the shifters clamped in my Spinacis.
High on a cocktail of flossy teacakes and marmalade
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Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
My outer cable was too short!
Re: "PAUL'S" thumbies / "KELLY" take-offs for skinflints
Just a note to say that Planet X Tiramasu bars (~ £4.99) are 24mm clamp (at the handlebar end, the other clamp & curvy tube are ~22mm) not the 25.4mm that the webpage says (until they change it as I have told them, if you actually buy them it does say 24mm on the invoice ), so the clamps are the right size to attach to drop bars out of the packet.
Rick.
Rick.
Former member of the Cult of the Polystyrene Head Carbuncle.