Here's a long shot

[ukdodger]

Does anyone know where I can get hold of a 72 degree long point seat lug in cast standard road size. I've tried UK outlets for framebuilding lugs and 72 isnt one they do and american outlets dont answer emails it seems. Maybe someone knows a friendly local framebuilder that will sell me one. Thanks

Roger

[hubgearfreak]

Maybe someone knows a friendly local framebuilder that will sell me one.

roger, when i visited dave yates in his workshop, he had racks full of them. whether he's got the one you're after i don't know but it's got to be worth ringing him

http://www.daveyatescycles.co.uk/

[ukdodger]

Maybe someone knows a friendly local framebuilder that will sell me one.

roger, when i visited dave yates in his workshop, he had racks full of them. whether he's got the one you're after i don't know but it's got to be worth ringing him

http://www.daveyatescycles.co.uk/

Thanks Hub. I'll give him a try. Trust you and yours are doing well.

[hubgearfreak]

both boys are very well, as is mrs hgf, ta

we are all anxious for you to get you camera out and share some pictures of your frame though

[ukdodger]

both boys are very well, as is mrs hgf, ta

we are all anxious for you to get you camera out and share some pictures of your frame though

Well these are the forks. I had to make the fork jig and the bender behind it which is from an old mahogony doorstep. You cant see the carboard box filled with bent, twisted and flattened (in temper) fork blades just out of sight. I got the BB brazed into the seat tube and head lug into the down tube but then decided to change the design that's why I want the 72 lug. Nice tight bend though innit. I filled them with soft sand and capped both ends. Into the large end I brazed a nut shoved a large bolt in it and compressed the sand down hard. The blades bent with just the slightest flattening. You cant see it with your eye though which is plenty good enough for me.







Dave Yates is away but I left an email.

All the best Hub. Hope you new biz is picking up mate.

[hubgearfreak]

thay look spot on

[531colin]

Certainly is a tight bend, more difficult than the modern banana bend. I guess the tube will have flattened a bit on the outside of the bend? Traditional plumbers tube bender has a semi circular former and also a piece of straight channel for the outside of the bend, and thats for straight copper tube, not tapered steel tube.
I'm sure I've heard some dodge about how to really pack the sand in. Finest sand you can get, bone dry. Do you then put a plug or a handful of ball- bearings in and hammer it down with a drift? Got to be a way of capping it off too.
Going to bug me now.

[ukdodger]

Certainly is a tight bend, more difficult than the modern banana bend. I guess the tube will have flattened a bit on the outside of the bend? Traditional plumbers tube bender has a semi circular former and also a piece of straight channel for the outside of the bend, and thats for straight copper tube, not tapered steel tube.
I'm sure I've heard some dodge about how to really pack the sand in. Finest sand you can get, bone dry. Do you then put a plug or a handful of ball- bearings in and hammer it down with a drift? Got to be a way of capping it off too.
Going to bug me now.

They flattened by about 1/4mm and you cant see it with your eye. I brazed a cap on both ends and then cut a hole in the largest end and brazed a nut over the hole then filled the blade with sand through the hole packed it down and squeezed it down tight with a bolt through the nut. If you try it make sure you clean all the sand out of the blade before you heat it again. Any sand residue turns to glass and you cant shift it even with a file.

[531colin]

!!!!!!!!!!!! 0.25mm.???????????????

I'm doing it your way, if I'm ever tempted to do it at all!

BTW, I make stainless cable stops by brazing a M6 cap screw head, drilled and slotted to take the outer, onto a M6 hex screw head, filed to fit the frame tube. then silver solder to the frame . I can post pics if you like. Similar to take M6 brake adjuster barrel.

[hubgearfreak]

!!!!!!!!!!!! 0.25mm.???????????????

i know, but that's what roger's like.
you wouldn't want to do block paving for him

[ukdodger]

!!!!!!!!!!!! 0.25mm.???????????????

I'm doing it your way, if I'm ever tempted to do it at all!

BTW, I make stainless cable stops by brazing a M6 cap screw head, drilled and slotted to take the outer, onto a M6 hex screw head, filed to fit the frame tube. then silver solder to the frame . I can post pics if you like. Similar to take M6 brake adjuster barrel.

Yes I would like to see pics please.

[ukdodger]

!!!!!!!!!!!! 0.25mm.???????????????

i know, but that's what roger's like.
you wouldn't want to do block paving for him

I know. I'm a pain Hub. I love doing things just so. But it takes me time as you well know!!!

[hubgearfreak]

I know. I'm a pain

not at all, i admire perfection, but don't have the patience to acheive the levels you do

[531colin]

pics. of cable stops coming up. this is hard work for me!

Note that the filthy black condition is "as removed" not "as attached"!

cable stops 028 by 531colin, on Flickr

cable stops 032 by 531colin, on Flickr

cable stops 033 by 531colin, on Flickr

cable stops 047 by 531colin, on Flickr



First drill holes in 2 bricks to hold bolts at 90deg. and braze heads together. Drill and slot cap head for cable, or drill tap and slot for barrel adjuster. The bare wire guides are fun, I have 3 temperatures going on there. Braze heads together. hot silver solder brass tube through cap head. cool silver solder assembly to frame.

bullies 004 by 531colin, on Flickr

EDIT This cable stop is ground from a stainless M10 hex head bolt ....a bit of an exercise!

cable stops 022 by 531colin, on Flickr

still, they dont rust when the paint's been off for years!

EDIT....much later, it became clear that these photos had gone, so I have replaced them.

[531colin]

Errr....Bump, I suppose...just to show off my pictures..