V brakes a no go on this frame?

[hamster]

note that if you try to use a clamp-on cable stop for a brake, and the clamp is round a plain part of the tube (i.e. when it is loose it can slide easily) then it will probably move when you subject it to braking forces.

If the frame is built of heavy gauge tubing then a heavy clamp might tighten enough to be moderately reliable but a light-built clamp and/or a light-built frame will probably break somehow before an unstoppered clamp will withstand braking loads reliably.

Thus I'd use a clamp-on device for the gears, if I had to, or if it butted up against a stop (as per the photo above) for the brakes, but probably not otherwise.

Maybe in theory...however 5 years and 8000 miles on my MTB would suggest otherwise. It never moved. Definitely clamp over the butted end of the tube immediately close to the seat tube..but that's the right place anyway.

[Brucey]

Sorry brucey, i don't quite understand you, particularly the second para. Are you saying that the preferred approach for the brakes would be to use the continuous outer run lever to noodle (with outer zip-tied or clamped) rather than subject a clamped STOP to forces it might have trouble with?

Re the final para i had the impression that using, even in an adapted way, that metal squiggly pipe near the seat tube wouldn't work as it would curve the inner one way and then it would have to curve straight back to attach to the v arm. Its original purpose of course was to get the cable in the centre for the canti.

What I'm saying is that you should (with a new inner obviously) leave the cable run as it is, but trim the plastic bit flush with the 'tail' of the guide tube. Then fit a short length of outer and a V-pipe in the usual way, with a suitable ferrule between the guide tube and the cable housing. Cable housing is designed to be flexible (some more than others, and some can be preformed into curves if required), and if that isn't enough by itself then there are such things as flexi-noodles for the V brake; you could (say) simply use two of those if you wanted to. Like this, with or without a barrel adjuster, different lengths too.




I have little doubt that you will be able to make something that will work just fine, I've seen it done many times before.

note that if you try to use a clamp-on cable stop for a brake, and the clamp is round a plain part of the tube (i.e. when it is loose it can slide easily) then it will probably move when you subject it to braking forces.....

Maybe in theory...however 5 years and 8000 miles on my MTB would suggest otherwise. It never moved.....

One swallow doth not a summer make; whether the thing will move depends on a lot of things, many of which are outside of your control.

A lot of gear fittings used to be 'band-on' and they were just a PITA even though they saw tiny cable loadings. If band-on brake fittings (without stoppers on the tubes) were a good idea you might see them fitted OEM on some bike frames (e.g. which are intended to be versatile). I don't ever remember seeing such a thing being fitted and I think the reason is that it just isn't reliable enough.

cheers

[breakwellmz]

Sorry brucey, i don't quite understand you, particularly the second para. Are you saying that the preferred approach for the brakes would be to use the continuous outer run lever to noodle (with outer zip-tied or clamped) rather than subject a clamped STOP to forces it might have trouble with?

Re the final para i had the impression that using, even in an adapted way, that metal squiggly pipe near the seat tube wouldn't work as it would curve the inner one way and then it would have to curve straight back to attach to the v arm. Its original purpose of course was to get the cable in the centre for the canti.

Information overload by now i expect!

I would go for `full` inner and outer the whole length personally.I used some of those stainless cable clamps highlighted in both sizes recently (Fine apart from some sharp edges that had to be removed) These are useful as well-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272118213975? ... EBIDX%3AIT

[Sweep]

Update: I have successfully installed the rear V brakes using the continuous cable run (inner and outer) system secured by zip ties pending arrival of three of those clips from evans which I linked to above.

I have been in direct contact with someone else who has a similar bike who puzzled me slightly by saying that at the back of the top tube he had neatly run the cable under that squiggly bit of metal - I couldn't figure out how he had managed that as that would put the cable too low to smoothly enter the noodle from above so my cable does a loop upwards at the back of the top tube before heading down to the noodle. I couldn't see any other way of doing this. All seems to work fine on the stand though it hasn't yet been ridden.

Many thanks for all your help.

After this latest fettling the only bit of my trusty 97 Rideback Adventure that is original is the frame/stem/bars/headset - but it is a really nice bike.

[Brucey]

the guide pipe was most likely put on by hand and may vary in position slightly from one frame size to another or even from one frame to another.

It may be that there is more room on some frames than others.

cheers

[Sweep]

OH NO!! BRAIN FART AGAIN! Those are for cantis!!

no probs colin, thanks for all your advice and posts on this and other matters anyway. And it's always interesting to learn about new bits/solutions.