People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Cycle-touring, Expeditions, Adventures, Major cycle routes NOT LeJoG (see other special board)
serbring
Posts: 327
Joined: 6 Feb 2011, 11:14pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by serbring »

I have just found this website, it looks to me a useful resource!

http://www.cycling.martinhilbers.info/m ... mirHighway
Kieran2663
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 Apr 2015, 4:00pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by Kieran2663 »

Hi Serbring,

Hope you are well?

Regarding your sleeping bag issues, I had a Mammut three season bag, with a comfort temperature of -5c and a an extreme of -22. Needless to say that it never reached -22 but we clocked nights on the high plateau of -5 and slightly below that, this was in End June early July 2014. So do be prepared for some cold nights at altitudes over 3500m. If you can get a good second hand or new 3 season natural down bag I would personally recommended that, as it is better to be to hot than to cold, they also pack small and keep you very warm, just don't get them wet...

Security and protection wise, the whole of the GBAO has a heavy police/army presence due to a number of reasons both political and geographical. Having said that the areas most heavily policed by the army are the Amu Dara river area, making the border with Afghan/Tajik, there is a high amount of Herion passing through these areas and people on both sides of the border making money through the trade. Our experience was that the army (3 men in a car 1 uniformed the others not) turned up just as we were setting up camp asked how many of us they were and told us they would station a armed soldier by out tents until the morning for safety.

Pump wise definitely take your MSR multi fuel, they is a very limited stock of gas canisters in Dushanbe which are expensive and not easy to find. Petrol is easy to come by in the bigger towns in the Pamir and you will need your stove even if you intend to use homestays or not, certainly for the remote stretches.

Food wise my wife and I rolled with very thing we needed, we topped up in Khorog with some pasta, snickers and other small things. We stayed in 4 homestays, and camped every other night we were there. Personal matter of choice really, either stock up with the good quality food in Dushanbe or rely on towns on route, such as Kalaikhum, Khorog and Murghab. But note the food supply isn't the best in the Pamir. Have at least 4 days worth of food on you to be sure and so you can enjoy yourself and the Pamir.

We had around $1000 US, which included a few dollars emergency funds. regarding spending Euros I can't say, only had US dollar and Somani. You can change Euros in Dushanbe on Rudaki avenue though.

Have a great trip.

K
serbring
Posts: 327
Joined: 6 Feb 2011, 11:14pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by serbring »

Kieran2663 wrote:Hi Serbring,

Hope you are well?



Hi Kieran,

I'm super fine, thanks. And you?


Regarding your sleeping bag issues, I had a Mammut three season bag, with a comfort temperature of -5c and a an extreme of -22. Needless to say that it never reached -22 but we clocked nights on the high plateau of -5 and slightly below that, this was in End June early July 2014. So do be prepared for some cold nights at altitudes over 3500m. If you can get a good second hand or new 3 season natural down bag I would personally recommended that, as it is better to be to hot than to cold, they also pack small and keep you very warm, just don't get them wet...



You're on right, I will check it out. I have a not self-supporting tent, may it be ok for camping in the Pamirs?


Security and protection wise, the whole of the GBAO has a heavy police/army presence due to a number of reasons both political and geographical. Having said that the areas most heavily policed by the army are the Amu Dara river area, making the border with Afghan/Tajik, there is a high amount of Herion passing through these areas and people on both sides of the border making money through the trade. Our experience was that the army (3 men in a car 1 uniformed the others not) turned up just as we were setting up camp asked how many of us they were and told us they would station a armed soldier by out tents until the morning for safety.



Did they just station by your tent? I have heard many rumors of scams by policeman or assumed to be so. Did it happen to you?


Pump wise definitely take your MSR multi fuel, they is a very limited stock of gas canisters in Dushanbe which are expensive and not easy to find. Petrol is easy to come by in the bigger towns in the Pamir and you will need your stove even if you intend to use homestays or not, certainly for the remote stretches.



thanks I'll buy the MSR multifuel stove.



Food wise my wife and I rolled with very thing we needed, we topped up in Khorog with some pasta, snickers and other small things. We stayed in 4 homestays, and camped every other night we were there. Personal matter of choice really, either stock up with the good quality food in Dushanbe or rely on towns on route, such as Kalaikhum, Khorog and Murghab. But note the food supply isn't the best in the Pamir. Have at least 4 days worth of food on you to be sure and so you can enjoy yourself and the Pamir.

We had around $1000 US, which included a few dollars emergency funds. regarding spending Euros I can't say, only had US dollar and Somani. You can change Euros in Dushanbe on Rudaki avenue though.

Have a great trip.

K


Considering that as you I will camp most of the time, do you believe that the rear pannier and rack pack are enough or do you suggest me to get a front pannier as weel?

Thanks

Serbring
Kieran2663
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 Apr 2015, 4:00pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by Kieran2663 »

Hi Serbring,

I am very well thank you.

Tent wise you will be fine with a non free standing tent, obviously free standing tents have there advantages but I think for a trip of the Pamir these can be overlook, just make sure you try and camp out of the wind.

There is a lot of corruption throughout Tajikistan, this many means small "fees " are handed to Police (by local driver mainly) for chai money or whatever you want to call it, they get paid very little by the state. And corruption for better or worse has been endemic in the country for generations; in Dushnabe we got stopped 7 times by traffic police in a taxi. Having said that in the Pamir we had no issue with any officials, in fact we even got given free ice cream in Khorog by police who were trying to improve public relations. Some of the border guards / soldiers weren't the friendliest we came across but be polite and smile and you will be fine.

As we were doing the Pamir as part of a long trip we had 4/5 bags each, I would suggest that having front and rear bags would give you the added advantage of being able to carry more and be more self sufficient and balance the bike more evenly instead of having all the weight in 3 bags on the rear rack, which is not ideal. It will mean forking out on more kit ie front bag and rack, but worth it.

Hope that helps.

K
serbring
Posts: 327
Joined: 6 Feb 2011, 11:14pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by serbring »

Kieran2663 wrote:Hi Serbring,

I am very well thank you.

Tent wise you will be fine with a non free standing tent, obviously free standing tents have there advantages but I think for a trip of the Pamir these can be overlook, just make sure you try and camp out of the wind.

There is a lot of corruption throughout Tajikistan, this many means small "fees " are handed to Police (by local driver mainly) for chai money or whatever you want to call it, they get paid very little by the state. And corruption for better or worse has been endemic in the country for generations; in Dushnabe we got stopped 7 times by traffic police in a taxi. Having said that in the Pamir we had no issue with any officials, in fact we even got given free ice cream in Khorog by police who were trying to improve public relations. Some of the border guards / soldiers weren't the friendliest we came across but be polite and smile and you will be fine.

As we were doing the Pamir as part of a long trip we had 4/5 bags each, I would suggest that having front and rear bags would give you the added advantage of being able to carry more and be more self sufficient and balance the bike more evenly instead of having all the weight in 3 bags on the rear rack, which is not ideal. It will mean forking out on more kit ie front bag and rack, but worth it.

Hope that helps.



K


Hi Kieran,

Thanks for your reply. How much do you use to give as a chai money? I have contacted Pamir Silk Travel for the VISA support more than a week ago, but they haven't replyed. How long does it usually take long time to get an answer? I'm also considering to get a local sim card, are they cheaper than chatsim?

thanks
Kieran2663
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 Apr 2015, 4:00pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by Kieran2663 »

Hi Serbring,

The "chai money" was paid by the driver, but was of very small demonination of Somani to the officer on the take, when you are in country you will see this happening to drivers on a frequent basis, as mentioned we were personal never asked for a bribe and never had any negative dealings with the police.

We rang Shargaf at Pamir Silk whilst in Dushanbe and meet him personal, I believe he splits his time between Dushanbe and Khorog (where this is limited internet access)so that may explain the delay. Have you tried ringing?

If you have the time when you get to Dushanbe you could apply for the permit yourself, it cost $4 USD and is available from the OVIR office on Mirzo Tursunzoda Street, Dushanbe. Go first to the Amonat Bank on the corner of Bukhoro Street and Mirzo Tursunzoda street, pay the clerk $4 for GBAO permit fee and get receipt , then take this to the OVIR office and present receipt, passport copies and photo to officials at the first desk on the left as you walk in. They will sort out the rest for you and show you what to do. If they are issuing permits it doesn't take all that long to get it processed, but if you have a time limit then this option is less attractive. Take a pen and some patience.

We purchased a Beeline SIM card in Dushnabe for emergencies and only send a few texts and made a few calls whilst there, it was cheap but fairly useless in the Pamir as mobile phone connection is poor to non existent.

Cheers
K
serbring
Posts: 327
Joined: 6 Feb 2011, 11:14pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by serbring »

Kieran2663 wrote:Hi Serbring,

The "chai money" was paid by the driver, but was of very small demonination of Somani to the officer on the take, when you are in country you will see this happening to drivers on a frequent basis, as mentioned we were personal never asked for a bribe and never had any negative dealings with the police.

We rang Shargaf at Pamir Silk whilst in Dushanbe and meet him personal, I believe he splits his time between Dushanbe and Khorog (where this is limited internet access)so that may explain the delay. Have you tried ringing?

If you have the time when you get to Dushanbe you could apply for the permit yourself, it cost $4 USD and is available from the OVIR office on Mirzo Tursunzoda Street, Dushanbe. Go first to the Amonat Bank on the corner of Bukhoro Street and Mirzo Tursunzoda street, pay the clerk $4 for GBAO permit fee and get receipt , then take this to the OVIR office and present receipt, passport copies and photo to officials at the first desk on the left as you walk in. They will sort out the rest for you and show you what to do. If they are issuing permits it doesn't take all that long to get it processed, but if you have a time limit then this option is less attractive. Take a pen and some patience.

We purchased a Beeline SIM card in Dushnabe for emergencies and only send a few texts and made a few calls whilst there, it was cheap but fairly useless in the Pamir as mobile phone connection is poor to non existent.

Cheers
K


Hi Kieran,

Thanks again for your precious information. I haven't tried ringing, yet, but I will try to ring to Shargaf . Speaking abour camping, is there anything I should know about camping in the Pamirs?

cheers

Michele
Kieran2663
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 Apr 2015, 4:00pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by Kieran2663 »

Hi there,

Nothing that is isn't common sense really,

- ideally camp where you are out of sight (for piece of mind and to stop folks turning up)
- near a water supply
- covered from the elements
- ask local land owners if it is okay to pitch if on someone's land (this would possibly happen on the first bit of the M41 between Kalaikhum and Khorog and the Wakhan, as they are fairly populated in places, and it shouldn't be an issue)
- try to camp lower at attitudes, where possible. Climb High Sleep Low mantra - a general rule of thumb would be to try and only ascend 500m in altitude per day to be on the safe side, this is not always possible and practical, but the lower you sleep the better chance you have of not becoming effected by AMS and altitude related issues, and you will get a better nights sleep certainly as it shouldn't be as cold or exposed to as much of the weather elements.
- try to bury human waste
- leave nothing but foot prints.

Overall The Pamir provides a wealth of amazing secluded & isolated camping opportunities.

Enjoy
Kieran
serbring
Posts: 327
Joined: 6 Feb 2011, 11:14pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by serbring »

Kieran2663 wrote:Hi there,

Nothing that is isn't common sense really,

- ideally camp where you are out of sight (for piece of mind and to stop folks turning up)
- near a water supply
- covered from the elements
- ask local land owners if it is okay to pitch if on someone's land (this would possibly happen on the first bit of the M41 between Kalaikhum and Khorog and the Wakhan, as they are fairly populated in places, and it shouldn't be an issue)
- try to camp lower at attitudes, where possible. Climb High Sleep Low mantra - a general rule of thumb would be to try and only ascend 500m in altitude per day to be on the safe side, this is not always possible and practical, but the lower you sleep the better chance you have of not becoming effected by AMS and altitude related issues, and you will get a better nights sleep certainly as it shouldn't be as cold or exposed to as much of the weather elements.
- try to bury human waste
- leave nothing but foot prints.

Overall The Pamir provides a wealth of amazing secluded & isolated camping opportunities.

Enjoy
Kieran


Hi Kieran,

thanks for your reply, especially the trick of camping at lower altitude. Should I bring with me a like the following: http://www.mosquitohammock.com/images/p ... adNet1.jpg?
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matt2matt2002
Posts: 1126
Joined: 25 Oct 2009, 7:45pm
Location: Aberdeen Scotland UK

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by matt2matt2002 »

I am in Bishkek now.
Starting the Pamir Highway tomorrow.
Osh, Dushanbe, Khorog, Sary Tash and back to Bishkek.

Can I help?
Matt
2017 Ethiopia.5 weeks.
2018 Marrakech 2 weeks.
2023 Thailand 8 weeks.
Always on a Thorn Raven/Rohloff hub.
serbring
Posts: 327
Joined: 6 Feb 2011, 11:14pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by serbring »

matt2matt2002 wrote:I am in Bishkek now.
Starting the Pamir Highway tomorrow.
Osh, Dushanbe, Khorog, Sary Tash and back to Bishkek.

Can I help?
Matt


Hi Matt!

How you doing in Bishkek?
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matt2matt2002
Posts: 1126
Joined: 25 Oct 2009, 7:45pm
Location: Aberdeen Scotland UK

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by matt2matt2002 »

Great here.
27 degrees
Off this !morning to start our trip to Osh and the Dushanbe.
Sakura guesthouse house the best. 550/ might.
Traveling with 3 others.
Only hassle we heard of was a young American being shipped by police.
They stole 2000 Som from him. I think an isolated example.

Traffic on town bad. Pollution and pot holes plus bad driving.

No more internet access for a few days. But let me know if I can be of assistance.

Matt
2017 Ethiopia.5 weeks.
2018 Marrakech 2 weeks.
2023 Thailand 8 weeks.
Always on a Thorn Raven/Rohloff hub.
serbring
Posts: 327
Joined: 6 Feb 2011, 11:14pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by serbring »

matt2matt2002 wrote:Great here.
27 degrees
Off this !morning to start our trip to Osh and the Dushanbe.
Sakura guesthouse house the best. 550/ might.
Traveling with 3 others.
Only hassle we heard of was a young American being shipped by police.
They stole 2000 Som from him. I think an isolated example.

Traffic on town bad. Pollution and pot holes plus bad driving.

No more internet access for a few days. But let me know if I can be of assistance.

Matt


Ohh that's so bad!!! I'm wondering how it could happen. How long do you suppose it will take to cycle from Bishkek to Dushanbe? Could you please share your route?

Thanks

All the best!


It may happe
serbring
Posts: 327
Joined: 6 Feb 2011, 11:14pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by serbring »

Hi Matt,

how you doing?
serbring
Posts: 327
Joined: 6 Feb 2011, 11:14pm

Re: People who have cycled the Pamir Highway...

Post by serbring »

Hi Kieran,

I'm listing all the equipment I may need. I do not have a stove and a multifuel stove is rather expensive. Do you think it is necessary a stove in the Pamir?

Thanks
Last edited by serbring on 2 Sep 2015, 9:20pm, edited 1 time in total.
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