Getting Fit with your Full Load

Cycle-touring, Expeditions, Adventures, Major cycle routes NOT LeJoG (see other special board)
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Mick F
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by Mick F »

Did someone mention a concrete block?
I've been doing that for years. Last time was when I was preparing for my JOGLE on the Chopper.
I'm sort of famous for doing it.

Here's my Mercian with my block.
I fitted it with Rawl Plugs to the load bed. I once tried two blocks but it was rather problematical stopping! :lol: though I managed ok.
109_Block_1.jpg
Mick F. Cornwall
pwa
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by pwa »

Audax67

I also do audax, and I use my old, heavy touring bike for most of my riding and only get the clean, light audax bike out of the garage for events. It feels like I've thrown the anchor away! So yes, train with lots of weight.
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Mick F
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by Mick F »

Just found a shot with the two blocks. :D
Two Blocks.jpg
Mick F. Cornwall
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BeeKeeper
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by BeeKeeper »

I now know what the "F" in Mick's name stands for. It was what he was heard to gasp when he met a steep hill. Respect, as they say.
Psamathe
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by Psamathe »

Mick F wrote:Did someone mention a concrete block?
I've been doing that for years. Last time was when I was preparing for my JOGLE on the Chopper.
I'm sort of famous for doing it.

Here's my Mercian with my block.
I fitted it with Rawl Plugs to the load bed. I once tried two blocks but it was rather problematical stopping! :lol: though I managed ok.
109_Block_1.jpg

Totally off-topic question (sorry): With your trailer, can you swap the rod attaching trailer to the bike to the other side (i.e. say touring overseas where you might not want it protruding out into the traffic side of the bike) ?

Ian
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Mick F
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by Mick F »

No, because of the rear mech. I have horizontal dropouts but if you have vertical dropouts, I'm not sure as it depends on where the rear mech is with respect to the wheel axle.

If you have a hub gear, there wouldn't be a problem at all.

Personally, I'd prefer it on the RH because I push my bike from the left and sometimes the curve of the tow arm catches my right heel. It hurts! :shock: .......... so I have to remember to keep well away.

The tow arm doesn't "protrude" any further than about 4" beyond the wheel track, so it wouldn't be a problem with traffic. I don't know if the large CF trailer has a wider tow arm or the same tow arm as mine.
Mick F. Cornwall
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meic
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by meic »

Totally off-topic question (sorry): With your trailer, can you swap the rod attaching trailer to the bike to the other side (i.e. say touring overseas where you might not want it protruding out into the traffic side of the bike) ?


The amount of offset for the trailer is very small, other wise you would get some measure of the trailer angling when riding.
I can not remember if it was the trailer or the handlebars that were my widest point on the left but it was only an inch in it either way.

My trailer is an American made Burly were they do drive on the wrong side of the road but have still chosen to offset to the left hand side. I have ridden with it abroad for a fair bit and was not concerned by the slight movement of my precious cargo towards the cars (especially as they were soo much better behaved there) apart from a moral feeling that I should not be putting her further out than myself but in practice the offset is more symbolic than significant.

Finally to swap the rod on a Burly you would have to turn it upside down (no problem) and have two extra fixing plates on the other side, which as it is aluminium is not welding I would be happy with doing.
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andrew_s
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by andrew_s »

Mick F wrote:If you have a hub gear, there wouldn't be a problem at all.

Some hub gears would be a problem: those that don't have the gear changing inside the dropouts (toggle chain, clickbox or whatever).
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by al_yrpal »

Or… you can just some weighty panniers on, or..load up a rucsac. But, I dont need to do any of this. Last year for months before my first serious tour I was just going out for 11 or 22 mile rides two or three times a week. When it came to the tour I was riding around 60 to 70 miles per day every day for the first week without any problem. What I do on these shortish fitness rides is try to stay on the largest 50 tooth chainwheel all the time to build up leg strength. This probably also has a good effect on endurance. There are other ways to simulate a load - just stay in a higher gear.

Concrete blocks, who needs them?

Al
Reuse, recycle, thus do your bit to save the planet.... Get stuff at auctions, Dump, Charity Shops, Facebook Marketplace, Ebay, Car Boots. Choose an Old House, and a Banger ..... And cycle as often as you can......
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Mick F
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by Mick F »

andrew_s wrote:
Mick F wrote:If you have a hub gear, there wouldn't be a problem at all.

Some hub gears would be a problem: those that don't have the gear changing inside the dropouts (toggle chain, clickbox or whatever).
Yes of course!
Silly me. :oops:

I reckon that toggle chains on a SA may not be problem with a Carry Freedom because you fit the hitch semi-permenently to the dropout using the wheel nut. The toggle chain would have to be disconnected to fit it, but then be reconnected and would operate normally. Maybe the Lollipop could foul the toggle? Maybe not?

Tell you what, I have a bike with a SA 3sp so I'll offer the CF hitch up to it and see.

Back later. :D
Mick F. Cornwall
Dudley Manlove
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by Dudley Manlove »

On the run up, just do some overnighters or weekend trips with your full load. Enjoy the training! Even mid-week trips are doable. I used to cycle the 30miles over to Ivenhoe Beacon from my house, camp up for the night, cycle back next morning, go swimming (for the shower), then go to work. There's usually plenty of local place to explore. Much rather do something like that than lugging bricks around for the sake of it.
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Mick F
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by Mick F »

Just checked using our RSW16, though I didn't actually fit anything, just offered it up and eyeballed it.

With the bracket and Lollipop on the RH side, the toggle chain clears the hitch ....... just.
The toggle chain elbow as it exits the wheel nut extension is just above and just left of the plastic lollipop, but won't foul anything.

If you use the older universal joint hitch (which I still own) the clearance is absolutely fine.
The old hitch is much lower than the Lollipop hitch, so is way out of the way of the toggle chain.
Mick F. Cornwall
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Tigerbiten
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by Tigerbiten »

Mick F wrote:The tow arm doesn't "protrude" any further than about 4" beyond the wheel track, so it wouldn't be a problem with traffic. I don't know if the large CF trailer has a wider tow arm or the same tow arm as mine.

It's the same trailer arm as it's sized to fit a 27" wheel.
I thought about shortening it a few inches as I only use 20" wheels.
But as it doesn't stick out further than my bent trike or trailer, I didn't bother
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Heltor Chasca
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Re: Getting Fit with your Full Load

Post by Heltor Chasca »

All sounds simple! I'm in favour of the 'load up' and go and chill out somewhere for the weekend.

I've found with hikes, it's the stress of packing, unpacking, not finding what you need when you need it where you need it tricky. It's amazing how fatigue instigates mistakes. I've had a bivvy blow away whilst setting up camp on a spur once. Just tired and not watching what I was doing. Twit. Housekeeping needs practice as much as fitness...hc
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