Advice on full touring frame build please..

[Rabbit]

I am planning an extended tour lasting several months and I'm in the fortunate position of having a frame built up for me but it's posing all sorts of questions which I hope you might help answer. As it's the first time I've had a bike built for me I'd like to know that I'm not making any horrendous mistakes! So roughly here is what I was planning - the tour I'm planning is all on roads, mountainous in parts, carrying front and rear panniers with camping gear. I'd also like to be able to use the bike for shorter weekend trips and day rides when I get home.

So - At the moment the spec I was thinking of is a Reynolds 725 frame, with vertical drop outs, cantilever brakes, front and rear rack eyes, and fittings for 3 bottles. I think the frame will have clearance for tyres up to 32 mm. It'll have a traditional style top tube (ie not sloping) and a quill stem. I was going to use it with 9 speed bar end shifters, a triple chainset of 22-32-44 or something like that and rear cassette of 11-32. I was going to have some Harry Rowland rigida sputnik or Mavic wheels on LX or XT hubs - and have XT front and rear mechs. From looking at other posts that all sounds fairly standard but I'm no expert. The main thing I was worried about was whether cantilevers were the best thing to have for loaded touring - and if that limits me in the future to only running bar ends or down tube gears - ie no STIs. Anyway, your thoughts would be welcome - Thanks,

[tatanab]

Something to consider by way of brazed fittings. Fit conventional downtube lever bosses. These can then be used with bar end levers or Ergo/STI, but if everything breaks then a simple downtube lever can be fitted. You mention possible compatibility problems of cantilever with STI/Ergo. There are none I am aware of. Even if you do go with cantilever mountings, then still have the fork crown and rear brake bridge drilled for a brake - added flexibility if something goes terribly wrong. If you are having 3 bottle cages then I'd suggest that the location for a pump is on the left seat stay. Gets it out of the way and many frame builders understand what is needed, i.e. a pump peg at the top and a simple stop at the bottom.

I would not use cantilevers. I think they are vulnerable to damage especially when flying (I have seen one wiped off). They were THE option to have until decent spec dual pivots came on the scene. I would say to use mini V brakes (as I do) but then you'd have to watch carefully for rim clearance which may be a concern when away for such time. So go with dual pivots. Quill stem I would forget as well and use a modern 1 1/8" A stem. Easier to work with when packing for a flight. Front loading quill stems are available, but they are like hen's teeth to find. This is from somebody who prefers the elegance of a quill stem but still has A stems on 2 machines for just the reasons given.

Everything else sounds pretty much the way I would do it other than arguing about gear ratios.

[Rabbit]

Thanks Tatanab - very useful advice, hadn't thought to get the forks drilled as well! On the gear ratios do you think those are a bit extreme? I just wanted something to get me up the steepest pass...

[tatanab]

On the gear ratios do you think those are a bit extreme? I just wanted something to get me up the steepest pass...

No, I was just jesting because we all have our own experiences and gearing is a commonly the point where people's ideas diverge.

[beardy]

It can get a bit fiddly trying to have front cantilevers and a fork crown mounted (dynamo) lamp.
Also can be poor stoppers with STI levers.

MiniVs mean you have to keep your rims pretty true all the time almost zero tolerance on them.
They do stop well.

Dual pivots restrict tyre size to around 28mm plus guards for 57mm long reach.
Long drop 75mm are not very good stoppers but allow larger tyres.

It is always a compromise.

[stephenjubb]

I am planning an extended tour lasting several months and I'm in the fortunate position of having a frame built up for me but it's posing all sorts of questions which I hope you might help answer. As it's the first time I've had a bike built for me I'd like to know that I'm not making any horrendous mistakes! So roughly here is what I was planning - the tour I'm planning is all on roads, mountainous in parts, carrying front and rear panniers with camping gear. I'd also like to be able to use the bike for shorter weekend trips and day rides when I get home.

So - At the moment the spec I was thinking of is a Reynolds 725 frame, with vertical drop outs, cantilever brakes, front and rear rack eyes, and fittings for 3 bottles. I think the frame will have clearance for tyres up to 32 mm. It'll have a traditional style top tube (ie not sloping) and a quill stem. I was going to use it with 9 speed bar end shifters, a triple chainset of 22-32-44 or something like that and rear cassette of 11-32. I was going to have some Harry Rowland rigida sputnik or Mavic wheels on LX or XT hubs - and have XT front and rear mechs. From looking at other posts that all sounds fairly standard but I'm no expert. The main thing I was worried about was whether cantilevers were the best thing to have for loaded touring - and if that limits me in the future to only running bar ends or down tube gears - ie no STIs. Anyway, your thoughts would be welcome - Thanks,

Are you going for 26" wheels? You'll need them if going to Africa or South America ( and parts of Asia ) as spares are easier to find. Mentioned as you will need to have your fame sized for it or 700c

[andrew_s]

It is always a compromise.

some more compromises to consider...

full size V brakes are good stoppers, but require compatible levers, which means no STI or Ergo in the future.

Cable discs such as BB7 road are good stoppers and allow unlimited clearance (or even switching wheels to 26"), but require that the framebuilder agrees to putting on stronger and heavier fork blades and (maybe) chainstay. Chainstay mounted rear allows best rack compatibility, and front-of-RH-fork-blade front mounting is safer than the normal rear of LH blade, and removes the need for lawyer lips, but consider rack compatibility beforehand. There can be overheating problems if you descend a big col slowly rather than adopt a plummet and brake hard at intervals style.

Drum brakes can be good stoppers and allow unlimited clearance etc, but are comparatively heavy.

[531colin]

If you are having bar-end (gear) levers, then full-size Vee brakes (and compatible drop bar brake levers) is a no-brainer.

[BeeKeeper]

I would start from a completely different point - Surley LHT, the one with disc brakes and fit flat bars. Not the traditional British tourer. My Surley has a Rohloff as well but accept these are not in everyone's budget.