morocco - sticks and stones...

Cycle-touring, Expeditions, Adventures, Major cycle routes NOT LeJoG (see other special board)
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banjaxed
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Joined: 2 Jun 2012, 12:04pm

morocco - sticks and stones...

Post by banjaxed »

Thanks to all who came up with some great ideas for routes in Morocco. I'm spoilt for choice!

I'm interested in opinions on comments (mainly on CGOAB) about aggressive behaviour of kids and a prevailing culture of over charging by hoteliers. I've been to Morocco a few times (though not on a bike) and have never experienced the latter. Unless there are reports of anything serious I plan to go ahead with the tour later this month. For the record I will do a circular route starting and ending in Marrakech to include Atlas mountains, possibly Draa valley and the coast.
iviehoff
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Joined: 20 Jan 2009, 4:38pm

Re: morocco - sticks and stones...

Post by iviehoff »

banjaxed wrote:Thanks to all who came up with some great ideas for routes in Morocco. I'm spoilt for choice!

I'm interested in opinions on comments (mainly on CGOAB) about aggressive behaviour of kids and a prevailing culture of over charging by hoteliers. I've been to Morocco a few times (though not on a bike) and have never experienced the latter. Unless there are reports of anything serious I plan to go ahead with the tour later this month. For the record I will do a circular route starting and ending in Marrakech to include Atlas mountains, possibly Draa valley and the coast.

I did a circuit of just that area, though not out to the coast. I never had stones thrown at me, though my wife and I were careful to be reasonably modest about our dress, no lycra skin shorts etc. I think the stones tend to be more related to dress that they would think immodest. What we did have was very tiring and persistent begging. Sometimes from adults too. The most annoying day was riding up into the Jbel Sahro from Boumalne, we had a permanent escort of children on bikes, demanding stuff all the time.
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Farawayvisions
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Re: morocco - sticks and stones...

Post by Farawayvisions »

Children will chase you, sometimes on foot and sometimes on their bikes, but no malice is intended. Ignore the constant cry for stylos. Be prepared for stones if you try and take photographs of women without permission. Being chased by dogs is the scariest, though 'chased' is what happened. I wasn't mauled.
I've spent months in Morocco, High Atlas, Anti Atlas and the coast. Loved every time. Locals are fantastic, warm and welcoming. Usually paid 100 - 200 dirham for hotels per couple ( basic accommodation) or wild camped.
Last edited by Farawayvisions on 13 Feb 2016, 11:06pm, edited 1 time in total.
toontra
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Joined: 21 Dec 2007, 11:01am
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Re: morocco - sticks and stones...

Post by toontra »

Cycled that area last year, mainly in the high Atlas. Never had a single problem with kids - they were usually very friendly and even helpful. I think it sometimes depends on your mind-set - if you go expecting the worst then you may find it. Dogs can usually be out-stared and shouted at.

We booked all our accommodation online in advance. That avoids all the bartering hassle that you really don't want at the end of a long, hot day in the saddle.

It was a fantastic place to cycle - I'm sure you'll enjoy it!
FarOeuf
Posts: 441
Joined: 14 Jan 2014, 9:31pm

Re: morocco - sticks and stones...

Post by FarOeuf »

I've travelled Morocco quite a few times. The whole stylo/begging thing is partly down to the tourists who visit. Some of the guide books even recommend taking pens to give out to kids. So some tourists take a box of pens and happily throw them out the car window, and then some cyclists comes along to hear, "stylo, stylo..". You're just another rich tourist to these kids, so try and remember it's not 100% their fault. And they are just kids, they don't yet understand geo-politics. Humour pretty much always works in the stylo situation, a little French goes a long way too.

Aggresive kids chucking stones? Never experienced it. Overwhelmingly the kids have been very funny and friendly. Lots of them ride bikes to and from school, so plenty of opportunity for you to be a kid again and have races. I would expect some kids in Morocco to be aggressive, but just like I'd expect that everywhere and expect it to be an absolute minority.

Hotels overcharging. Maybe, maybe not. Any different to anywhere else? You can easily book online in most places, even smaller towns. You can get the price up front, and then walk away if you don't like the price. If you walk into a place holding your credit card, then maybe you'll be charged maximum rate. But that happens in the UK too (I used to work in the industry), and all across Europe. Decide the price you would like to pay for a night, and then walk/cycle around looking for places and asking for that price. Often they'll try and throw in the price of dinner, which may or may not be a good deal. But if you look at the average UK hotel which throws in breakfast, is breakfast really worth an extra £5-10?

Definitely go, it's great for cycling and culture. The coast is where you'll have more hassle (and traffic), in the same way any tourist heavy location is a hassle. But even then it's trivial unless you're of a very sensitive disposition.

cheers,
iviehoff
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Joined: 20 Jan 2009, 4:38pm

Re: morocco - sticks and stones...

Post by iviehoff »

Farawayvisions wrote:Ignore the constant cry for stylos.

It wasn't the request for stylos, dirhams, bonbons, that upset me. It was when they asked me for my packed lunch. I may have had loaves and fishes for lunch, but I found myself unable to adjust the quantity available to more than enough for ourselves.
DaveFY7
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Joined: 16 Jun 2009, 12:42am

Re: morocco - sticks and stones...

Post by DaveFY7 »

I've just had a wonderful time cycling through Morocco. Just one occasion of stone throwing when cycling through the Riff mountains in the north. I pulled up and told them off in good old Anglo Saxon language. At other times some of the kids would run alongside and on one occasion seemed a little hostile which had me hoping that they wouldn't push me over. Generally though they are a friendly lot and just unpredictable as they get very excited to see you especially in the towns along the desert highway in the south. I had some good laughs with them but they WILL come up and beg for stuff. I think it is inbred into them and it's not just the kids. Just keep a close eye on your gear. I had a rear light stolen in one village when surrounded by kids.


It's funny when you mention feeding the masses. I had a few occasions when the Berbers appeared out of the desert with their camels asking to be fed. I thought at the time, "What do they expect. I'm not a bloody canteen van..!!" It was a great sight seeing a camel train appearing out of the hills.

Southern Morocco was awesome. A bloke told me they were desperate for rain as it hadn't rained since September.

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/codheadontour2016
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