TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Cycle-touring, Expeditions, Adventures, Major cycle routes NOT LeJoG (see other special board)
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ConRAD
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TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by ConRAD »

TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail or OO-Obiettivo Ortigia, as sympathetically I like to call it, is intended to be a long distance cycle ride from Milano, where I'm presently living , to Siracusa in the deep South of Italy.
The trip takes inspiration from an old map of the fifteenth century when Italy wasn’t actually existing yet; the northern-central part of the peninsula was indeed divided into a number of warring city-states and the rest occupied by the larger Papal States and the Kingdom of Sicily.
Corsica at that time was still belonging to the Repubblica of Genova and was put in pledge to France only in 1768 with the Treaty of Versailles .
Some of the places I’ll pass-through will actually be a sort of a déjà vu … though I’m pretty sure that, this time, most of them will be quite likely seen and therefore perceived under a completely new and unique point of view … also because this time the “adventure” will be “taking-off” exactly from my home doorstep !!

Please feel free to follow me HERE, I'm not a big expert indeed but Italy is so far my home Country!
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Sweep
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by Sweep »

Interesting time of year to set off.

Also an interesting route to sardinia (i understand why you are doing it for historical reasons if course) would be interested in how much the ferries cost for you and the bike. Which company sails from livorno to corsica? How often?

I have a plan to cycle to sardinia sometime but was going to take in rome and then sail from civitavecchia.

All the best and good luck.

Accomodation plans for sardinia?
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iviehoff
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by iviehoff »

Here's a list of ferries, seems to be 2 companies with a fairly frequent service on both Liv-Bast and Cors-Sard.
http://www.cemar.it/dest/ferries_corsica.htm

The cycling routes on the islands wouldn't be the ones I'd choose, especially in Sicily. Sicily has a population of 5 million, and they nearly all live along the coast, so you'll be in a region of very dense habitation if you stick to the coast, especially the first bit around Palermo. Sardinia has only a third the population of Sicily - and a shame to avoid the Barbagia (central east hill country) entirely, it's kind of the historic cultural core of the island. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbagia
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ConRAD
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by ConRAD »

iviehoff wrote:...the cycling routes on the islands wouldn't be the ones I'd choose...

quite respectable point of view of course, though in my opinion a little bit biased and not so far realistic and therefore useful as I’d prefer.
I’ve been living and travelling throughout this Country for over sixty years by know, almost everywhere I guess, sometimes as a tourist, some other times for business, finally a few other times as a simple temporary visitor, so please let me to decide when and where I wish to go.
I’ve been many times in Corsica, Sardegna and Sicilia, traffic of course depends a lot on the specific season.
Talking about cycling, I’ve been in Corsica (inner and coastal) in the between end of April and beginning of May and I remember that it was simply crazy, hundreds of motobikers everywhere especially from France and Germany.

I’ve been in Sicily (inner and coastal) in October 2012 …. and I’ve loved it so much that I’m right now repeating the same trip: HERE MY SICILY

I remember that a few years ago I was looking for suggestions in this forum about cycling in Portugal and, if I’m not wrong, you replied to my post in a very similar fashion. Well, I completed my trip throughout Portugal and I remember that I’ve never cycled in so much desolated roads as ever before: HERE MY PORTUGL

Thanks anyway
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iviehoff
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by iviehoff »

People tend to make postings such as yours to invite comments on their routing from others, so it's a bit of a surprise to learn you actually know these places well. Obviously you are perfectly placed to choose your own route. I chose the terminology "what I'd choose" precisely because I realise others may have different preferences. When I'm going somewhere I don't know so well, I listen to people's suggestions and reasons, and then assisted by that, but ultimately make my own choice informed by my own preferences.

Your Portugal trip includes many of my favourite bits of Portugal - I wonder if you were over-influenced by me? In English "desolate" has very negative connotations, and I wonder if you intended that. Quiet and remote wilderness landscapes, with just a few nice towns and villages, are just what we like best! And we have many cycling friends with similar preferences.

It was curious for me to go cycling in the Netherlands this year. It's the kind of place I'd never normally go to, as it isn't very quiet and remote and has little wilderness. I had to seek advice on a suitable route, because I just didn't know how to choose a route in a landscape so alien to what I was used to cycling in. I ended up buying a book with a detailed description of a recommended cycle route. Though we ended up going off-piste from time to time to make it fit our own requirements a little better. Next time we go there, which may be next year, we'll be more confident in choosing our own route off a map.

Your pictures are superb, btw, and a wonderful advert for a cycle tour of Portugal and Sicily.
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ConRAD
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by ConRAD »

iviehoff wrote:... in English "desolate" has very negative connotations, and I wonder if you intended that. Quiet and remote wilderness landscapes, with just a few nice towns and villages ...

... to be honest even to me the word “desolate” was not sounding very well … perhaps I only made the big mistake to rely a bit to much on my Concise Oxford Dictionary according to which the word “desolate” means alone, solitary, uninhabited … but, I see now, also ruined, neglected, barren, dreary, empty, forlorn, wretched, miserable … etc. etc.

But you are perfectly right and apologise for that, what I wanted to say was exactly what you said ... quiet and remote wilderness landscapes.
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Sweep
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by Sweep »

I'd still be interested to know your accommodation plans for Sardinia Conrad - may also help out someone asking about Sardinia on another recent thread.

Looking at what I can see of your route across Sardinia from that rough map I could suggest one or two nice/interesting spots to pause awhile but hesitate to after the exchange above (which thankfully all ended well) - you maybe already know them.
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ConRAD
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by ConRAD »

I apologise again for sometimes to appear, totally or partially, somehow unable to use the most appropriate English expression, this often giving space to unintentional and therefore unwanted possible misunderstandings, thing that, unfortunately, sometimes I’m experiencing even in Italian … that so far is my mother tongue !
But now that we’ve clarified the whole story here below the important points.

TI3IT- Thru Italy 3 Island Trip is the English “title” that one day I’ve decided for this adventure, a sort of a “well sounding” English acronym, nothing more. The real title nevertheless is the Italian “OO-Obiettivo Ortigia” where Ortigia is the historical heart of Siracusa, indeed the real final goal of this trip.
The 3 islands in the between are just “something” in the between.
I’d love of course to go after your suggestions and possible detours but from my home to the final destination I’ve calculated something a little less than 2000 km, infinite climbing, intermittent ferries (from Cagliari to Palermo just one company once a week!!!) and then the big problem of accommodation.
I’m not carrying with me any camping gear; camp sites are quite often far away from the main road forcing to go first down to the shore for climbing-up to reach back the main road again the day after.
I’m travelling alone and therefore accommodation costs will definitely be an important issue.
This time for the night I’ll definitely prefer to stay in some urban place … try to find some cheap b&b and possibly find a place where to have dinner and talk with local people.
For the North part of the trip (Milano-Livorno) I’ll try to avoid any advance reservation and look for a bed at the moment and in the place where I arrive.
For Corsica I have a rough idea of the places where I stopped in a previous cycle trip.
Sardinia is a bit more of an “unknown” place for me, I’ll try to use SOMETHING LIKE THIS ONE or, alternatively, when and where I arrive I’ll see.
In Sicily I’m a bit more confident, I still have the complete list of all b&b’s that I’ve been using in 2012.
For all the rest is so far an “adventure”, maybe an adventure with the special connotation to be since its very beginning, or become along the road, a sort of a very special trip … at least for me.
It might appear a little bit ridiculous but, despite a consistent number of prejudices towards a certain part of my Country, now, that I’m almost on the edge of a possible retirement … well, yes, I’m seriously thinking to a sort of an hemispherical change in my life … and so far in other words possibly sell my house in Milano and buy a little flat for two in the deep South … close to the sea.
Ortigia (Siracusa) to this respect would be a strong candidate.

Ps: as far as I can, I’ll keep updates posted on my blog, now it’s time to switch-off everything and have a look to the bicycle and all the stuff for a final trim … tomorrow is “la grande partenza” .
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nirakaro
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by nirakaro »

Buon Coraggio Conrad. Wonderful destination, Ortigia - I finished my first bike ride in Italy there, standing in Piazza Minerva, watching gli Azzurri winning the World Cup in 2006. Is it true that the duomo, converted from a temple of Athena in the 5th century, is the oldest still-used building in the world?
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ConRAD
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

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nirakaro wrote:... is it true that the duomo, converted from a temple of Athena in the 5th century, is the oldest still-used building in the world?

It might be, though I admit to be not very much prepared on the specific subject ... but I'll investigate,,, surely I'll investigate and let you know.
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Sweep
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by Sweep »

ConRAD wrote:I’d love of course to go after your suggestions and possible detours but from my home to the final destination I’ve calculated something a little less than 2000 km, infinite climbing, intermittent ferries (from Cagliari to Palermo just one company once a week!!!) .


Well, might involve extremely minimal deviations/detours.

Are you by any chance taking the road from Arbus to Fluminimaggiore?

Ferries - if all goes a bit pear shaped i think there is a separate weekly crossing from Cagliari to Trapani.
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ConRAD
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by ConRAD »

Sweep wrote:...might involve extremely minimal deviations/detours. Are you by any chance taking the road from Arbus to Fluminimaggiore? Ferries - if all goes a bit pear shaped i think there is a separate weekly crossing from Cagliari to Trapani.
.
I'm not a big expert of Sardinia but Arbus and Fluminimaggiore are exactly on my route !!!
BTW what's this story about the ferry from Cagliari to Trapani ... that's exactly what I was looking for but as far as I know it has been suppressed, do you have different information ??
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Sweep
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by Sweep »

ConRAD wrote: Arbus and Fluminimaggiore are exactly on my route !!!?


OK - you will be taking the SS126 then, climbing over the Passo Biderdi. Then a welcome long descent.

The SS126 goes towards Fluminimaggiore, but before it reaches it there is a decent sized road on the right (SP83 I think) heading for Buggerru (guaranteed to elicit a snigger frm even the most sober Brit) and the wonderful if challenging at times coast road.

Just before this turnoff is a small road/track and on that corner is a wonderful ancient tree - some sort of pine I think.

There are two or so tables there. It's a wonderful tree and great place to sit to admire the view of the hills across the other side of the SS126.

I discovered it while cycling myself and then later took some Sards there for a picnic.

No detour at all.

I also have the impression that you are heading to Iglesias.

A good place to pause from the pedalling would be the monumental cemetary where there are a large number of works by this guy:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giuseppe_Sartorio

Also in Iglesias, amongst much else, is a notable WW1 war memorial by the famous Sardinian sculpture Francesco Ciusa, though he was very p'ed off by the addition on top pushing the concept of Victory. It's in Piazza Oberdan (hardly a piazza, just a bit off the main Piazza Quintino Sella).


ConRAD wrote:BTW what's this story about the ferry from Cagliari to Trapani ... that's exactly what I was looking for but as far as I know it has been suppressed, do you have different information ??


I have just had a look at the Tirrenia web page and fear you are right - it was running last time I looked in a Cagliari newspaper.

Enjoy the trip - I will follow it with interest.
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ConRAD
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by ConRAD »

Sweep wrote:...

I've copied and pasted your post in a word file so I can review and consult it in an easier way.
Thank you.

About the "desolate" word, here an example of "positive" connotation, ... from my blog:

"The Strada Statale della Cisa, used to be once upon a time the main connection road across the Appennini, today nevertheless, also because the construction several years ago of an almost parallel motorway, it appears a truly “desolate” road, with few villages and just ... woods. Definitely "desolate" ... and in this case definitely spectacular"
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Sweep
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Re: TI3IT-Thru Italy's 3 Islands Trail

Post by Sweep »

Glad to be of service.

Two questions Conrad, since I have no intention of changing your route to any great degree.

1: Will you be passing through Fluminimaggiore to go straight to Iglesias or are you taking the roundabout coast road towards the aforementioned Buggerru?

2: When you go eastwards from Iglesias towards Cagliari are you taking the main road (can be done) or planning to go south or north of it?
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